Adventure Mania Trips & Expeditions

Zemu Gap from south: the first documented ascent

2012-01-23T04:10:00.000-08:00

view of Kangchenjunga south summit and Talung peaks from Tongshyong glacier. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee

Text & Photographs: Anindya Mukherjee

Introduction

Thehistory of exploration around Kangchenjunga[1],especially around its south, south east and east flanks; has always fascinatedme. The classic journeys and adventures of pioneers[2]like W.W. Graham, John Claude White, Douglas Freshfield, Dr. A.M. Kellas, HaroldRaeburn, N.A.Tombazi, Lord John Hunt and Paul Bauer ignited my imagination. Theheight of inspiration of course came from reading my hero Mr. H.W. Tilman’saccount in the Himalayan Journal (vol. IX) on his attempt on Zemu Gap fromsouth in 1936.

Theprimary challenge of climbing Zemu Gap from south has always been its remote& complicated approach. Many failed just to reach the foot of this col. Toadd to that its apparently impregnable defenses took Zemu Gap to a next levelof exploratory climbing. In 1925, Greek photographer N.A.Tombazi is said tohave made its first ascent from south; but he did not take any photographs! Tome and my long time expedition partner Thendup Sherpa; all the above factorsseemed highly intriguing and certainly worth investigating.

From the south summit of Kangchenjunga(8476m) a high ridge extends east separating the Zemu glacier valley on thenorth from Tongshyong and Talung glaciers to the south. On this ridge, between ZemuPeak (7730m), Unnamed Peak (7038m) and Simvu Twins (6812m & 6811m) there isa sudden drop in altitude to form a col. At 5861m this col is more popularlyknown as the Zemu Gap[3].To its north is Zemu glacier and to its south Tongshyong glacier. Itscoordinates are 27°40'9"N 88°12'53‟E. From Zemu Gap a small, steep glacierflows down to Tongshyong as a tributary glacier. To climb Zemu Gap fromTongshyong, one would have to negotiate 2 icefalls on this tributary glacierfirst and then find a route on the head wall. But before the climbing problemcomes the approach issue. Approaching Zemu Gap from north is straightforward.From south, one has to cross Guicha la from the Prek Chu valley, across Talungglacier, climb onto Tongshyong glacier by Timan’s ‘snow col’ and then arrive atthe foot of the tributary glacier. Anotherway of reaching Tongshyong could be to reach its snout (either from GuichaLa-Talung route or through the Rukel-Rongyoung gorge route) and then traversetowards its head to reach the base of the tributary glacier from Zemu Gap. In1975, an Indian team (A.J.S Grewal) found the first option exhausting. They didreach Tongshyong and the base of Zemu Gap’s glacier though. In 2008 and 2010respectively, a British team and another Indian team failed even to reachTongshyong by the first option. I somehow preferred the second alternative.Since I had survived the ‘trackless vale of tears’ (Tilman, When Men andMountains Meet), the Rukel-Rongyoung gorge route in March 2011; I had plannedfor a direct approach to Tongshyong from Mangan via the gorge route.

our approach routes marked as red, green and blue indicating different attempts in March, November and December 2011

Preparation

“ThoughSikkim is reasonably accessible, only some half-dozen of its countless loftypeaks have been conquered, and many of its fascinating valleys and uplands havescarcely been trodden by Europeans. There is therefore plenty of scope forexplorers and naturalists as well as for climbers. … Nevertheless he is a boldman who, reading of these determined assaults, sometimes successful, sometimessplendid failures, will pronounce the summit of any peak in the Sikkim Himalayato be definitely inaccessible.”EXPLORATIONAND CLIMBING IN THE SIKKIM HIMALAYA LIEUT.-COL. H. W. TOBIN | 1930, Himalayan Journal vol.II

Albeit,more than 80 years have passed since H.W. Tobin wrote the above lines; somepart of Sikkim Himalaya has managed to retain its original flavor! While thefactor of inaccessibility has reasonably abated over the past decades; a wholenew hurdle has entered the arena. Bureaucracy! The Talung Basin[4] (which falls partly within theKangchenjunga National Park and partly in the north Sikkim Lepcha sanctuarycalled ‘Dzongu’) area is a classic example. Even though this valley system hasno proximity or direct access to the Indo-Tibetan borders; it remains veiledbehind restrictions and a mountain of paper works.

In2008, a British team, got permission to cross Zemu Gap from south and traversethe Zemu glacier valley down to Lachen. This was particularly encouraging newsfor me and my long time climbing partner Thendup Sherpa. With my friendO.T.Lepcha’s (Tholung Ecotourism Cooperative Society, T.E.C.S) involvement andactive support we also succeeded in procuring the necessary permits. Thisresulted in a series of expeditions that I would undertake in 2011[5].

Tostart the exploration process, we repeated Claude White’s route of July 1890,in reverse, forcing up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu gorges to connect Mangan, northSikkim with Yoksum, West Sikkim in March 2011. This success reinforced ourconfidence and we were ready to have an attempt on Zemu Gap from south, a longstanding problem in mountaineering history around Kangchenjunga. In November,2011, we crossed Guicha La, went down Talung glacier to set up a high camp onTongshyong. But a 5 day long snow storm stopped us from approaching Zemu Gap.We went down the Rukel-Rongyong gorges to Mangan. Finally in December 2011, wewere successful in climbing Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier, i.e. south.

our line of ascent on the second icefall guarding zemu gap from south, pic: Anindya Mukherjee

Zemu Gap and the Talung Basin: Exploration, Attempts andAscents

Beforegoing into the description of our expedition let us browse through some mountaineeringand exploration history of the Talung basin and Zemu Gap.

1. In 1890, John Claude White, made one ofhis first expeditions that involved crossing the Guicha la. He crossed Guichala, went down to Talung glacier (which he referred to as the ‘Kangchen’glacier- source: “Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty-One years on the North EastFrontier 1887-1908- J. Claude White, p-57) and then followed the‘Talung’/’Ronggyaong’ Chu (‘Rungnu’- as per White) eastwards to Sakyong andfinally to Ringen (the present day location of North Sikkim Government officesabove Mangan). In his book “Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty One Years on the North–East Frontier 1887-1908”, he writes in page 53- “In 1890 I made one of my first expeditions to the snows, crossing theGiucha-la pass and from there making my way to Ringen, following a route thelatter part of which had certainly never been traversed by a European, and Idoubt by anyone, except possibly a very occasional Lepcha.”

Mr. H.W.Tilman later called this gorgeroute “the trackless vale of tears” in his book ‘When Men and Mountains Meet’.(p.321). Lepchas of the Dzongu valley call Talung Chu as “Ronggyaong” or simply“Rongyoung” chu. In this report we have referred to it as “Rongyoung”.

2. In 1899, Mr. Douglas Freshfield,accompanied by Professor Garwood intended to determine practicability of anascent to Zemu Gap by its northern approaches (Zemu glacier). Bad weatherprevented them from making much progress beyond ‘Green Lake’. Rinzin Namgyaland Sella brothers were also part of his ‘high level tour’. (‘RoundKanchenjunga’- Douglas Freshfield)

3. Dr. A.Kellas with threecoolies camped at 18,200 ft, just below Zemu Gap and then went to the col onthe morning of 12 May 1910. ‘Theslope fell away steeply in front, and a few yards down there was a crevassethat stretched right across the gully.’ ‘The Mountains of Northern India andSikkim’, Alpine Journal 26 (1912) Pp. 113-142. - A.M. Kellas. This is probably the first documentedascent of Zemu Gap from North; i.e. Zemu glacier.

4. 1920-First attempt on ZemuGap from south; i.e. Tongshyong glacier. H.W. Tobinand Harold Raeburn, explored Talung and Tongshyong glaciers and an attempt wasmade to ascend Zemu Gap from south. He describes the approach to the Zemu Gapfrom the Tongshyong glacier as ‘the narrow entrance and the mountain sidesraked with such a continuous hail of rocks and debris that an approach by thisroute would have been little short of suicidal’…On their way out of TalungBasin they took Claude White’ s route of 1890 following the gorges of Rukel andRongyoung rivers. (Himalayan Journal II-1930-Pp 1-12, ‘Exploration and Climbingin the Sikkim Himalaya’).

5. N.A. Tombazi made a tour ofthe locality in 1925 (Alpine Journal38 p. 150, Geographical Journal 67). Heclaimed to have made the first ascent to the Zemu Gap from the south. He however provided no photographicevidence against his claimed ascent.

6. In 1926, Captain Boustead declared he reached the Zemu Gap from thesouth. (Geographical Journal 69 Pp. 344-350). But his description raisedsuspicions in Mr. H.W.Tilman’s mind and in 1936 during his attempt from south;HWT suggested Captain Boustead may have mistaken a col located at the head ofTongshyong glacier as Zemu Gap. In Mr.Tilman’s words,…‘TheZemu Gap differed so widely from the account I had read that I half believed amistake had been made and that the genuine gap lay concealed behind some cornernear the head of the Tongshyong. There was, however, no other break in themighty south-east ridge of Kangchenjunga, and the low, easy col at the head ofthe glacier obviously led over into the wide bay at the head of the Talung. Isit possible that, in the thick weather prevailing when Captain Boustead washere, this had been mistaken for theZemu Gap?’ (Ref. HJ IX, The Zemu Gap, H.W.Tilman)

7. Karl von Kraus, Joachim Leupold of the German Expedition to climbKanchenjunga (Led by Paul Bauer) climbed Zemu Gap in July-August 1929 from north, Zemu Glacier. Second ascent from North.

8. Mr.H.W. Tilman, made his first attempt onZemu Gap, from the south in 1936 accompaniedby Pasang Kikuli. Mr.Tilman reached Tongshyong glacier from Talung by crossinga ‘snow col’

(Located between Talung andTongshyong glaciers on the ridge running west to east seperating the twoglaciers in the process). In Mr.Tilman’s words, “Although we were loath to givein, defeat seemed imminent, for beyond these obstacles lay the final ice-wallwhich from below appeared impregnable.” He was thwarted “where we had a goodview of the final wall .It was fully as high as we had feared, all iced, and appearedto overhang in places.” On his way outhe followed Claude White (1890) and Harold Raeburn (1920)’s direction down theRuykel-Rongyong Chu gorges to Sanklan Sampo below Mangan. (When Men andMountains Meet p. 311)

9. In 1937, During a winter expedition lasting nearly two months, John Hunt and Pasang Kikuli reached theZemu Gap from the north on 18 November[6].Evidence showed that the German party had already been there earlier (Led by Paul Bauer, and three other climbers, Adolf Gottner, Dr.Giinter Hepp, and Dr. Karl Wien were climbing Siniolchu and Simvu North peaksin September -October 1937). Therefore, Paul Bauer’sparty ‘may’ have done the 3^rd ascent of Zemu Gap from North and LordHunt’s team 4^th. John Hunt, ‘Awinter visit to the Zemu Glacier’, Himalayan Journal X (1938) and HJ IX-‘Ascent of Siniolchu and Simvu North Peak I’ by Dr. Karl Wien.

10. Mr.H.W.Tilman’s second attemptto cross Zemu Gap came from the north in July 1938.It was successful on 9 July, though the descent down the steep southern sidewas fraught with difficulties. On his way out he avoided using the direct routedown to Talung glacier by the ‘snow col’ and followed Tongshyong glacierdownhill to climb up Talung glacier and crossed the higher Guicha La into PrekChu valley. The fifth ascent from northand the only successful crossing of Zemu Gap.

11. In 1975, J.K.Bajaj,Nima Tashi and Sherpa Passang after their failed attempt on Talung peak;investigated the Zemu Gap from the Tongshyong glacier. They were prevented fromcrossing the Gap ‘by two big open crevasses approx. 40 ft in width’ just 200 ftshort of the col. ‘…it is clear that the Gap can be reached if one goesprepared to bridge the two crevasses.’ (‘Talung 1975′, Himalayan Journal 34 (1974-75) Pp. 39-47, A. J. S. Grewal.

12. In 2008, an attempt wasmade by a British team to link together two treks – the ‘Guicha la’ trek andthe ‘Green Lake’ trek, across Zemu Gap. They crossed Guicha La from the PrekChu valley and reached Talung Glacier. Their plan was to reach Tongshyongglacier through the snow col and climb Zemu Gap from south. Their journey endedon the steep (mixed terrain with grass, juniper and scree) slope on the southof the snow col 200m below the level of Tongshyong glacier. The expeditionmembers were Adrian O’Connor from Leicester, and Colin Knowles and JerzyWieczorek from Bristol, all of whom are members of the Red Rope Club.

13. In 2010, a group fromKolkata (Mr. Subhamoy Ghosh), India intended to follow the 2008 Britishexpedition route. They crossed Guicha La from Prek Chu valley and reached up tothe grass, juniper, scree slope that leads to Tongshyong glacier viaMr.Tilman’s ‘snow col’.

14. In March 2011, ThendupSherpa and Anindya Mukherjee did Claude White’s 1890 route in reverse. It tookthem 12 days to reach Yoksum in West Sikkim from Mangan in North Sikkim. It was the first ever upstream journeydocumented up the deep gorges of Rukel-Rongyoung Rivers.

15. In November 2011,Anindya Mukherjee, Arjun Saha, Arindam sarkar, Thendup Sherpa crossed Guicha Laand reached the confluence of Talung Chu and Tongshyong chu. Making a base nearthe confluence they entered Tongshyong glacier traversing from its snout. Theirintention to proceed further towards the head of Tongshyong glacier andthereafter to Zemu Gap was foiled by 5 days of nonstop snow storm. They esacpedthe valley by following Claude White’s route to Sanklan sampo and Mangan in 5days.

16. In December 2011,Thendup Sherpa, Anindya Mukherjee and Pemba Sherpa started from Mangantraversing upstream Rongyoung and Rukel river gorges. They reached theconfluence of Tongshyong Chu and Talung Chu in 5 days. Making 3 more campsbeyond that point in Tongshyong glacier they climbed Zemu Gap on 15^thDecember, 2011. This is the first ‘documented’ ascent from South. Theyretraced their own route back to Mangan in just 3 days.

Sitemap

Pic 1: comparative photos of the ZemuGap top. On the left is an image from John Hunt’s expedition on 18th November,1937. On the right is an image from our expedition to Zemu Gap on 15^thDecember, 2011.

Our Journey through theRongyoung-Rukel gorges and ascent of Zemu Gap from south (3-19 December 2011)

Brief OutlineItinerary[7]

3rd December, 2011: Drive to Mangan from Bagdogra

4^th December, 2011: Drive to 6^th Milevillage in lower Dzongu valley in the Talung Basin

5^th December, 2011: Trek to Sakyong village(1700m) - 5 hours, stay at village

6^th December, 2011: Trek to Waterfall cave(2062m) - 6 hours, camp on the left bank of Rongyoung River

7^th December, 2011: Trek to Thar cave (2600m) - 7hours, left bank of Rongyoung River

8^th December, 2011: Trek to Bear Camp (3061m) - 4hours, left bank of Rukel River

9^th December, 2011: Trek to Tongshyong glacierBase Camp (3740m)- 5 hours, near the junction of streams coming fromTalung and Tongshyong glaciers

10^th December, 2011: Bad weather. A day lost.Original plan was to reccee for a camp I site inside Tongshyong glacier andferry loads.

11^th December, 2011: We move to Camp I (4701m) -4 hours, camp on left lateral moraine of Tongshyong glacier

12^th December, 2011: We move to Camp II (4968m) –3 hours, due to poor visibility and worsening weather conditions we had to stopearly. Still on the left lateral moraines

13^th December, 2011: Clear sky finally. We recceeand ferry loads to Camp III site. We find a suitable camp site in the smalltributary glacier originating from Zemu Gap.

14^th December, 2011: we move up to Camp III(5250m), Camp III is located on a moraine shelf above the first icefall of Zemu Gap’s glacier. There are 2 icefalls and1 final head wall forming the defenses of Zemu Gap. Camp III is already abovethe first icefall.

15^th December, 2011: We climb to the top of ZemuGap (5861m) and come back to Camp III. 12 hour day. The vertical height gain ofthe second icefall is around 250m and the final head wall is 200m.

16^th December, 2011: down to BC

17-19^th December, 2011: we take 3 days to reach 6^thMile village retracing our steps.

our line of ascent on the final head wall of zemu gap. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee

Description: Zemu Gap from south

Approach through ‘the trackless valeof tears’

As per theitinerary above, our team united in the North Sikkim district head quarters ofMangan on 3^rd December, 2011. Following morning, we did someshopping for grocery, vegetables and other essential commodities for ourexpedition. Later in the day we took a jeep to the village of 6^thMile. We stayed in the guest house of Tholung Ecotourism Cooperative Societythat night. Next morning (5^th) we trekked past the village ofLingzya and crossed the Rongyoung River. The September earthquake has devastatedthe lower Dzongu valley. The village of Be in the Ringi Chu catchment has beennearly erased with many dead. Fortunately for us the bridge on the riverRongyoung survived though twisted. We spent that night in a village hut inSakyong.

Sakyong isthe last human habitation on the western edges of Dzongu. Beyond this we willbe entering Kangchenjunga National Park jurisdiction. On 6^thDecember, 2011, morning we followed the true right bank of Rongyoung for first3 hours. After Singnok we crossed the river over a make shift log bridge.Singnok is a place where Sakyong folks have been cultivating Large Cardamom forgenerations. We find its mention in Claude White’s descriptions.

Aftercrossing the Rongyong River beyond Singnok, trail ends and begins Tilman‘s‘trackless vale of tears’! We bivouacked below an overhang rock near abeautiful waterfall on 6^th. It took us around 6 hours from Sakyongvillage to reach this spot. We had camped here before in November 2011, whilecoming down the gorge after our first failed attempt on Zemu Gap from Tongshyongglacier. Next day we kept on the true left of the river and after 7 hours founda cave suitable to spend the night. We could see signs of Himalayan Tahrs. Theycertainly have been using this cave as their shelter. We felt like trespassers.

8^thDecember, 2011, we left the Rongyoung and followed Rukel River by its trueleft. We camped by the river next to a spectacular gorge formation. At dusk wewere visited by a Himalayan Black Bear. We had to make a fire to drive himaway. On 9^th December, 2011, we reached the junction of streamscoming from Tongshyong and Talung glaciers. We established our base camp forZemu Gap there at an altitude of 3740m. Snow fall started from the afternoon of9^th and did not stop for next 30 hours. As a result we lost one day(10^th December). We had plans to reccee and ferry some loads thatday into Tongshyong glacier.

11^thDecember, 2011, saw us moving up the Tongshyong stream and climbing scree toreach the left lateral moraine of Tongshyong glacier. In spite of poorvisibility we made good progress and made Camp I at an altitude of 4701m. Poorvisibility and intermittent snow fall patterns continued overnight and to thenext day. It was difficult to take bearings on our maps and orient ourselves.Due to poor visibility, on 12^th December we made an early camp. Thiswas camp II (4968m).

13^thDecember, 2011, sky finally cleared and we realized that we were still far awayfrom the small tributary glacier of Zemu Gap. This small tributary glaciermeets Tongshyong near its head from its north. We did a reccee and load ferrythis day and in the process had a good view of our objective.

Ourobservations revealed that there are 2 icefalls and 1 final head wall guardingZemu Gap from any assault from Tongshyong. While the first icefall could beavoided by taking a scree gully on its true right; the second icefall has to benegotiated head on. Not much could be seen of the final head wall. With mixedfeelings of hope and despair we came back to Camp II.

On 14^thDecember, 2011, we moved up to the camp III site chosen yesterday. Camp III wasestablished above the first icefall, at an altitude of 5250m. From here we hadgood views of the second icefall. Thendup did a further reccee that afternoonand came back to camp with optimism. The weather seemed to be stable finallyand we had a great view all around. We felt special to be in a place where veryfew have reached.

15^thDecember, 2011, Thendup Sherpa, Anindya Mukherjee and Pemba Sherpa left campIII at 5.15 a.m. It took them total 6 hours to negotiate and climb the secondicefall (250m) and 200m of final head wall. The head was climbed by a rockroute avoiding the overhanging blue ice that dominates the centre of the Gap.Standing on Zemu Gap we fell very satisfied. We could see the upper Zemu glacierto our north, the junction of Twins Glacier and Zemu Glacier, Sugarloaf (6459m)and surrounding mountains. To our eastand ENE we could see the Simvu massif and its northern aspects. The summit of6812m (one of the Simvu twins) and peak 6587m were also distinct. To our west asteep slope with threatening seracs climbed towards peak 7038m. To our SSE wesaw peak 6350m (located at the head of South Simvu glacier) and to our southPandim (6691m), Tilman’s ‘snow col’ separating Talung and Tongshyong glaciers,Guicha la (4940m), and peak 5962m were noted. We took lots of photographs andstarted to retrace our steps down soon. After many short pitches of downclimbing and 5 abseils on rock and ice we were at the bottom of the secondicefall and in relative safe zone. Zemu Gap is climbed from south and this timewe have come back with photographs.

The nextday, 16^th December, 2011, we trekked down to our base. It took usanother 3 days to retrace our steps through the gorge and reach 6^thMile village and Mangan.

Team: Thendup Sherpa, AnindyaMukherjee, Pemba Sherpa, Phurtemba Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa

Anindya and Thendup on top of Zemu Gap after their first ascent from south, i.e.tongshyong glacier, Photo Pemba Sherpa

Acknowledgements:

· Thisexpedition would not have been possible without the support of my friend KevinHynes. I am indebted.

· T.E.C.S.

· GeorgeRodway, PhD

· PriyadarshiGupta, Himalayan Club, Kolkata section

· BritishZemu Gap Expedition 2008, Colin Knowles

· Souvenir,50^th Anniversary of First ascent of Kangchenjunga, Himalayan Club,Kolkata section

· HimalayanMountaineering Journal, vol. IX

· Sikhimand Bhutan- J. Claude White

· H.W.Tilman-‘When Men and Mountains Meet’

Pic 2: red dotted line shows our March’11 route. Blue dotted lineshows November’11 route. Nov’11 route is similar to March route with variationbetween Chemathang and Talung glacier through Guicha la. Green dotted lineshows Decemeber’11 route to Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier.

Forfurther information on this expedition please contact:

AnindyaMukherjee

CharuNiketan

20A.L.Nath Lane

Po:Belurmath, Dist: Howrah

PIN:711202, West Bengal, India

Email:anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

[1] The spelling of ‘kangchenjunga’ has long beendebated. For wider reference to the etymology consult Himalayan Journal vol.IV, p. 198-214

[2] Asummary of mountaineering and exploration history of the area is in page 3 ofthis report

[3]Also referred to as ‘Zemu la’ and ‘Cloud Gap’ in some journals

[4]Mostly referred to as Rukel - Rongyoung Chu gorges in this report

[5]Refer to Pic 2: for route outlines taken by us respectively in March, Novemberand December 2011 p 10 of this document

[6]Please refer to Pic. 1 in page 6

[7]The camp names mentioned in the itinerary above are names given by us. There isno trail in this gorge route. We camped or bivouacked in suitable caves orsites depending on the length of ground we covered each day. ‘Thar’ cave wasliterally a cave used by Himalayan Tahrs and on 8^th December, aHimalayan Black Bear visited our camp, hence the name ‘Bear Camp’.

Zemu Gap is Climbed!

2011-12-22T02:23:00.000-08:00

On 15th December 2011, at around 11 a.m. we stood on the top of Zemu Gap. This is the first documented ascent of ZG from south, i.e. Tongshiong Glacier.Anindya Mukherjee and Thendup Sherpa is seen in this photo. Pemba Sherpa took the snap. Seen in backdrop is the upper Zemu Glacier and many mountains including Sugarloaf. The small glacier ( tributary to Tongshiong glacier on its true left near its very head) that originates from Zemu Gap has the following defenses: 2 ice falls and 1 final head wall. We had made 1 ( our 3rd camp in Tongshiong glacier) final camp after negotiating the lower ice fall. It took us 5 hours to climb past the 2nd icefall and the final head wall on 15th December 2011. A brief report with more photos will appear on this blog soon. Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all!

Expedition to climb Zemu Gap from south: our first attempt fails in November 2011

2011-11-28T03:34:00.001-08:00

In November 2011, a small team from Adventure Mania made an attempt to ascend Zemu Gap from south (tongshiong glacier).

approaching guicha la

Starting from Yoksum they crossed Guicha la and descended down the talung glacier via Yongiotak. Making a base near the junction of talung chu and tongshiong chu they managed to climb the rock wall and camped next to tongshiong's vast and complicated icefall.

our tent after the 5 days of snow storm in the tongshiong ice fall

abseiling in near blinding white out

Simvu and Tongshiong glacier as seen from our base camp

Our base camp after 5 days of snow. Pandim in the backdrop, Talung face visible

Their further progress was foiled due to 5 days of non stop snow storm. They however managed to repeat the 1936 Tilman route down the Rukel and Rongyoung chu gorge. From Yoksum to Mangan it took them 12 days in total( From Tongshiong base it took them 5 days). The members were Lhakpa Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, Arjun Saha, Arindam Sarkar, Dukpa Tsering Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa and Anindya Mukherjee. This is the fourth party to have succesfully done this traverse (1890-Claude White, 1920-Raeburn, 1936-Tilman). Anindya and Thendup also achieved a rare privilage to have done this traverse from both directions (March 2011-Mangan to Yoksum:Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011). Adventure Mania is going back to Tongshiong glacier in December 2011.

Select Your Summit in Indian Himalaya in 2012: Climb with Adventure Mania

2011-11-01T06:41:00.000-07:00

Tinchinkhang 6010m- West Sikkim

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Deotoli Col: to the realm of the 'Blessed Goddess'- a brief report

2011-10-29T21:01:00.000-07:00

Introduction

InSeptember-October 2011, Thendup Sherpa, Nandan Singh Negi, Anindya Mukherjee,Lhakpa Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa left Joshimath and entered theTrisul/Nandaghunti basin. This basin was first surveyed by the legendaryHimalayan explorer Eric Shipton in 1936. In October 1936, he along with SenTensing and Ang Tharkay crossed a saddle (Ronti Saddle) located at the head ofRonti glacier and descended down the Nandakini.

Objective

Ourobjective was to explore the Northern spurs of Bethartoli Himal (North Summit6352m, South Summit 6318m) with an eye to find an alternative passage on thebarrier wall of Nanda Devi Sanctuary .Bethartoli Himal is located due north of Trisul I. We were looking for a coupleof low and accessible points on Bethartoli’s two Northerly spurs. BethartoliNorth has a satellite peak on its North Ridge. From this satellite peak twospurs originate and descend towards Rishi Ganga due North. Since we wouldapproach from Ronti glacier side; the one next to Ronti glacier was referred toas ‘frontal spur’ and the one that lay beyond was called ‘distal spur’.

Journey

view from the unnamed glacier stretching east from Deotoli Col.

20^th September, 2011,starting from Joshimath we drove up to Saldhar, a point 5 kilometer beyondTapovan by the left bank of Dhauli Ganga. From Saldhar we hiked up to thevillage of Subhoi and camped for the first night. In this village is a templededicated to ‘Bhavisya Badri’. It is believed that in distant future the idolof the present day Badrinath shrine will shift to this temple.’

For next twodays we crossed passes namely ‘Chattri Dhar’ and Ghaniyal Dhar’ (marked as ‘Cola’ and ‘Col b’ in Map 1 of this report) to enter the Ronti Valley. These twopasses have been traditionally used by villagers and shepherds of Subhoi andReni. In 2 days walk from Subhoi we reached below the north face of Ronti.Porters abandoned us here before reaching the snout of Ronti Glacier forcing usinto double load ferries, extra days and shortage of food. We managed to keepour spirits high and continued up the moraines of Ronti glacier.

On 26^th September, 2011, we reached a high point( 4800m) below the frontal spur and ‘Col C’ (5350m) and camped. 27^thSeptember, 2011, we climbed to ‘Col C’ located on the ‘frontal spur’ andcrossed into the small, boulder strewn basin to its East. This high ground andits nearly dead small glacier have its own narrow valley system and have givenrise to a small and insignificant tributary of Rishi Ganga. This river iscalled ‘Dudh Ganga’ and it meets Rishi Ganga on its true left directly South ofDharansi Pass and Malathuni in the Rishi Gorge. We decided to call this littlevalley “ Dudh Ganga valley” and the ‘Col C’ as Dudh Ganga Col. We also located an accessible point on the ‘distal spur’of Bethartoli North

28^thSeptember, 2011, we climbed up the ‘distal spur’ and reached ‘Col D’ at anapproximate altitude of 5400m. We were blessed by great views of the peakslocated on Northern and Eastern rims of Nanda Devi sanctuary. Below us to ourEast lay a small unnamed glacier. Its gentle slope looked very inviting. Fromour maps and taking bearings with our compass; we knew this would lead us tothe camping grounds of Deotoli by the Trisul Nala. We thought of calling ‘ColD’ as Deotoli Col (5400m).

29^th September, 2011, we crossed the Deotoli Colagain to spend a night on the unnamed glacier. We were rewarded withmagnificent views next morning. For next 4 days we retraced our steps back toSubhoi and Joshimath and thus ended our exploration.

Conclusion

Thus we wereable to locate two feasible cols of the northerly spurs of Bethartoli Himal andclimb them. We were the first party to locate and climb them. These two colsdid not require any climbing skills. Any seasoned himalayan trekker will beable to visit them. Obeying the law of the land we did not set foot on thevalley floor or enter the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. We stood on its barrier rim andretraced our trail back. From an explorer’s point of view we hope our exploredcols will join the list of previously known passes and cols of the Nanda DeviSanctuary.

on top of Dudh Ganga col 5350m. Trisul I-7120m in the center

Introduction to Basic Snow & Ice and Himalayan Glacier travel

2011-10-21T22:01:00.000-07:00

An week of training and practice on an West Sikkim glacierwith Adventure Mania climber and guide Thendup Sherpa and Anindya Mukherjee. BetweenThendup and Anindya there is vastmountaineering experience. Both of them have more than 25 major mountaineeringexpeditions to their resume and yet they belive in lightweight, alpine styleclimbing in the Himalayan context.The course will aim to cover the followingaspects of climbing and mountaineering:

· Glacier travel: techniques, route finding, campsiteselection,safety, protection

· Climbing: route planning and selection, pace,step kicking and cutting, switchbacking, using ice ax and crampons, balance

· Descending: step by step, plungestepping,glissade, descending with ice ax and crampons

· Arrest techniques and Belays

· Clmbing ethics and etiquettes

· Climbing safety

Course Duration: 14 days. (7 days trekking + 7 days oftraining)

Course date: March 9, 2012

Reporting at Darjeeling

Course fee: INR 27000/ per person

Note:

· All group climbing and camping gear will be providedand is included in the Course fee.

· All costs including porters, cook, permits, foodis included in the course fee.

· Individual climbing gear can also be rented fromAdventure Mania. This procedure will need advance notice.

· The optimum group size to make this venturefinancially feasible is 10. In case of less number of entries, we will not beable to run this course.

· Participants will have to get their owntransport to reach Darjeeling.

· If interested please send us an email mentioningyour previous experience in trekking/mountaineering. We will send you anitinerary and with more information on the programme.

· Email: anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

Some photos from our latest trip to the French Alps

2011-09-02T21:55:00.001-07:00

https://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/MontBlanc?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Shivling Expedition August 2011

2011-06-04T09:46:00.000-07:00

Inviting climbers to participate in our full service guided expedition to Mount Shivling from 24 August- 20 September 2011. The Indian climbers' who wish to join must have completed Basic/Advance mountaineering course from HMI or NIM. Only a few spots left. Contact by 30th June 2011 to book your place. email: anindya.adventuremania@gmail.com

Adventure Mania Expeditions 2011: Mountains to climb~

2011-04-04T02:14:00.000-07:00

Mont Blanc-Shivling~Satopanth~Kharchakund~Kilimanjaro
Mountains to Climb this year!

Hidden mythical paradise or Poacher's Paradise?

2011-03-28T21:22:00.000-07:00

Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011: we were to find trails for another 2 days after leaving Sakyong (10 March), the last lepcha habitation in upper Dzongu. Unfortunately this trail ( a very faint one and vanishing intermittently) is made by poachers! We stumbled upon one of their cave shelters on the true left of Rongyoung Chu. There we found freshly stored rice, dal, sugar, salt, tea leaves. Ration stocked for the poachers living there! And we found freshly slaughtered remains of Himalayan Tahr. Posting one such image here. May be its time the Forest Department of Sikkim wake up and send their uniformed, pot bellied guards patrolling the hills. Long Live Pawan Chamling! So much for politics and raping our planet!

Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011 The land of mythical paradise March 9, 2011 to March 22, 2011 Sikkim Himalaya

2011-03-26T12:56:00.000-07:00

The first view of Kangchenjunga South Summit (8491m) and Peak 7730m on its East Ridge. Tongshiong Glacier is seen in the centre below Kangchenjunga. The Expedition got this view on the 8th day of their march up the gorges of Rongyoung and Rukel Chu starting from the Lepcha village of 6th Mile, in Dzongu, North Sikkim. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011: A brief report
Inspirations

In 1888, after the outbreak of the Sikkim-Tibet war, John Claude White was sent as the Assistant Political Officer to Sikkim. The following year he was offered the post of Political Officer in administrative charge of State of Sikkim. In 1890, He made one of his first expeditions crossing the Guichala. He crossed Guichala, went down to Talung glacier (which he referred to as the ‘Kangchen’ glacier- source: “Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty-One years on the North East Frontier 1887-1908- J. Claude White, p-57) and then followed the ‘Talung’ Chu (‘Rungnu’- as per White) Eastwards to Sakyong and finally to Ringen (the present day location of North Sikkim Government offices above Mangan).

In his book “Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty One Years on the North –East Frontier 1887-1908”, he writes in page 53-

“In 1890 I made one of my first expeditions to the snows, crossing the Giucha-la pass and from there making my way to Ringen, following a route the latter part of which had certainly never been traversed by a European, and I doubt by anyone, except possibly a very occasional Lepcha.”

By doing this epic journey he was able to connect present day West Sikkim with the Southern tip of today’s North Sikkim. Following the apparently known Yoksum-Dzongri- Guicha La trails; he took the challenge of traversing the unknown and complicated gorges and river system in Talung Chu valley and reached Sakyong the uppermost village in todays Dzongu, the Lepcha Sanctuary. It took White and party 10 days longer than they had planned for (White never mentioned the exact number of days it took his party to complete their journey). And when he reached safety he wrote,

…“I do not think this journey could be equaled throughout the world for its beauty and variety of scene, the magnificent gorges, with wonderful waterfalls tumbling down on all sides, the wild desolation of the higher snows, and the richness of colouring and dense vegetation lower down; every few miles bringing new beauties before one.”

H. Raeburn (1865-1926)

In July and August of 1920, Harold Raeburn and Lieut.Col. H.W. Tobin carried out tours South of Kangchenjunga. After examining the Talung and Tongshiong glaciers they followed the gorges of the Talung, retracing Claude White’s steps to river Teesta below Singhik (Sanklan sampo). It took them eight days to complete their journey down the Rongyong-Rukel gorges.

The objectives of ‘Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011’

• To retrace J.Claude White’s footsteps in reverse and thus making a first time ever journey up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu river systems.

• To document and photograph the hitherto unknown terrain between Talung Glacier and the last Lepcha habitation of Sakyong in Upper Dzongu. After White’s journey in July 1890, it has been reported to have been repeated by pioneer Scottish mountaineer Harold Raeburn in 1920 (Source: “Exploration and Climbing in Sikkim Himalaya- Lieut.Col. H.W.Tobin, H.J. April 1930, Vol- II.) But their reports did not describe much of the terrain and most importantly accompanied no photographs.

• To open up a new trekking route up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu catchments and survey possible expedition routes to peaks located up Tongshiong and South Simvu Glaciers.

• To complete the journey without using Hi Tech navigation system like the G.P.S , Satellite phones, Google Earth images etc as a mark of respect to the early Himalayan Explorers. The Expedition decided to rely on an old contour map with 500ft contour interval and a U.S.Army compass.

Why ‘Mayel Lyang’?
‘Mayel Lyang’ is a Lepcha term that literally means “mythical paradise” or “hidden paradise”. It is also referred to as ‘Ancient Sikkim’ by the Lepcha. Our expedition went through valleys, rivers, mountains and villages that are deeply associated with Lepcha heritage and their cultural tradition. We therefore decided to call this journey as “Expedition Mayel Lyang”.

Summary: “Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011”

In the spring of 2011 a team of two Indian mountaineers (Thendup Sherpa and Anindya Mukherjee) left Mangan in North Sikkim to explore the hitherto unknown valleys of Rongyoung and Rukel Chu. For the first time in history this team was granted permission to retrace the footsteps of J. Claude White (1853-1918) and Harold Raeburn (1865-1926) in reverse; thus making their expedition unique and first of its kind.

From Mangan (modern day HQ of North District of Sikkim) the team headed West by 4X4 vehicle to the village of 6th Mile in Lower Dzongu. They crossed the river Teesta at Sanklang (mentioned by White as ‘Sanklan Sampo’) and entered the Rongyong (referred as ‘Rungnu’ by White) Chu valley. Here with the help of the ‘Tholung Ecotourism Cooperative Society’ eight more members joined the expedition. Namely Mingdup Lepcha, Samdup Lepcha, Chungden Lepcha, Tsering Ongchuk Lepcha, Phurzang Lepcha, Dawa Lepcha, Bikash Chettry, and Raj Kumar Gurung.

On 9 March, 2011, the team reached the last Lepcha habitation of Sakyong in upper Dzongu valley. Beyond Sakyong faint trail was found via Singnok (located due West of Sakyong on the true right bank of Rongyoung river) till a cave on the true left of Rongyong river. This cave is locally called ‘Singhik” and is used by the poachers. The Expedition team found ample evidence of recent poaching of Himalayan Blue Sheep, (Pseudois nayaur) and Himalayan Tahr (Hemitragus jemlahicus) in the cave. Photographs were taken accordingly. Opposite Singnok and North of Rongyong River was the Passamram Chu meeting Rongyoung on its left bank. The expedition was able to observe and survey the possibility to further explore the catchments of Passamram Chu and its potential exit to Zemu Glacier via Chibge La.

There were no more trails beyond the Poacher’s cave (Singhik) and the expedition continued up the valley following the true left of the Rongyoung River. Progress became extremely slow (3-4 kilometers per day) as forest cover got denser and undergrowth thickened. Being at the bottom of a gorge made navigation difficult. However, the expedition relied on their contour map and a U.S.Army compass to take bearings and force their way up the gorge.

After three days of toiling their way up Rongyoung Chu, on 13 March, 2011, they had their first view of the snows. They saw the Eastern and Northern flanks of Narsing-Jopuno-Tinchinkhang- Pandim range. This brought enthusiasm in the team and they continued up with renewed vigour. On 14 March, the team reached the confluence of Rukel Chu and Rongyoung Chu. From this day, they followed the true left bank of Rukel Chu and forced their way up thick dwarf rhododendrons and bamboos to the reach the tree line on 17 March, 2011, 8 days after they had left 6th Mile village. They could photograph the Tongshiong glacier the following day and were greeted by rare angle views of Kangchenjunga South Summit (8491m), peak 7730m and Simvu (6812m) peaks.

In next two days, in spite of inclement weather and poor visibility the team reached Yongiotak on the Talung glacier on 19 March 2011. The team found gaining and going on the moraines of Talung glacier not difficult at all. They were expecting it to be harder as per Claude White’s description. It has been 121 years since White descended the Talung glacier and observations revealed the glacier has retreated almost a kilometer in length. The ice cliffs encountered by White’s party were not obstacles any more. The team camped near the shrines of Yongiotak and with a window of clear weather had good views of the all the surrounding peaks, Pandim (6691m), Guicha (6137m), Kabru North (7338m), Talung ( 7349m), Talung saddle(6745m), Kangchenjunga South Summit (8491m) and the lesser peaks that separate Tongshiong glacier from Talung glacier.

On 20 March, 2011, the expedition climbed the higher Guichala, proximal to Pandim
(The one crossed by H.W. Tilman’s party in 1938 on their way down from the Zemu Gap) to get down to Zemathang grounds of the Prek Chu valley. The team reached the warmth of Kokchurung, via Lamoni and Thangsing the same afternoon and Yoksum on 21 March, 2011 to bring an end to their journey.

The “Expedition Mayel Lyang 2011” thus succeeded in exploring and completing a journey across the unknown and undocumented areas of Rukel and Rongyoung river catchments. It took them 11 days in total on the Talung side and just 2 days to cross the Guicha La divide and reach the road head of Yoksum. North and West Sikkim is now connected via Guicha La. It is possible to make a trail in the Rongyoung-Rukel side. That will not only open up new adventure and mountaineering destinations but also probably will put an end to poaching.

Without generous assistance of Ong Tsering Lepcha of “Tholung Ecotourism Cooperative Society” and vital academic support and inputs by Priyadarshi Gupta this Expedition would not have been possible.

* Yongiotak is also spelled as Yongjotak, Guicha La as Goecha La and Giucha La. Zemathang is sometimes spelled as Chemathang.

Talung beckons~

2011-02-28T04:38:00.000-08:00

A view from a village called Tingvung in the lower Talung Chu Valley, looking West. On a clear day snows of the Talung and Kangchenjunga can be seen above and beyond these mountains. They seemed to be protecting some sort of mystery from our eyes.I was fascinated by this view in September 2001, when I first visited Tholung Gompa. What the view revealed was important; but what was hidden is vital till this day! I came back to Tholung region and to Kishong la in 2006 and 2007 in 3 almost back to back trips. In those short exploration trips we managed to climb Kishong La, explore Dikithang and found a mountain pass called "Mige La". Yes a pass named after the "Migou" or Yeti. We also did 2 reccee trips into Zumthul Phuk Chu catchment and caught the first glimpse of Rock Needles (6303m)- a peak located on a South Easterly ridge coming from Siniolchu. So much to do and yet so little time!In May 2009, I was planning to repeat the Claude White route. But that trip never materialzed due to other climbing commitments. Our "Expedition to The Sanctuary of Snow 2011" will begin from this view point. This photo was taken by my friend Anirban Bandyopadhyay while we were shooting a documentary in the area in December 2009.

Expedition to the Sanctuary of the Snow: A tribute to explorer John Claude White

2011-02-25T21:20:00.000-08:00

John Claude White

In 1888, after the outbreak of the Sikkim-Tibet war, he was sent as the Assistant Political Officer to Sikkim. The following year he was offered the post of Political Officer in administrative charge of State of Sikkim. In 1890, He made one of his first expeditions crossing the Guichala. He crossed Guichala, went down to Talung glacier and then followed the Talung Chu eastwards to Sakyong. In his book “ Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty One Years on the North –East Frontier 1887-1908” he says in page 53, “ In 1890 I made one of my first expeditions to the snows,crossing the Giucha-la pass and from there making my way to Ringen, following a routethe latter part of which had certainly never been traversed by a European, and I doubt by anyone, except possibly a very occasional Lepcha.”

By doing this epic journey he was able to connect West Sikkim with the Southern tip of North Sikkim. Following the apparently known Dzongri- Guicha La trails, he took the challenge of traversing the unknown and complicated gorges and river system in Talung Chu valley and reached Sakyong the uppermost village in todays Dzongu, the Lepcha Sanctuary. It took White and party 10 days longer than they had planned for. And when he reached safety he wrote, “I do not think this journey could be equaled throughout the world for its beauty and variety of scene, the magnificent gorges, with wonderful waterfalls tumbling down on all sides, the wild desolation of the higher snows, and the richness of colouring and dense vegetation lower down; every few miles bringing new beauties before one.”

John Claude White was a British amateur photographer, who served in the Indian Public Works Department from 1876 and as political agent for Sikkim, Bhutan, and Tibetan affairs 1905–8. White accompanied the Younghusband Mission to Tibet in 1903–4 and during the campaign made a series of mainly landscape photographs, including a number of impressive panoramas. A selection of these was later issued in two photogravure volumes by the Calcutta photographers Johnston & Hoffmann as Tibet and Lhasa (1906). Owing to political sensitivities regarding the accompanying text, they were subsequently withdrawn, and are now extremely rare. A memoir, Sikhim and Bhutan: Experiences of Twenty Years on the North-Eastern Frontier of India, appeared in 1909, and many of White's photographs accompany the articles on Sikkim and Bhutan which he later wrote for the National Geographic Magazine.

Though he was born in Calcutta, White spent his teenage years studying in Bonn, Germany in the 1880s, where he was undoubtedly intrigued by the recent "golden age" of mountaineering of the mid-19th century that saw the first ascents of many Alpine peaks. White was given the chance to live amongst some of the world's most formidable mountains himself in 1888 when he was assigned to the Sikkim-Tibet Boundary Commission, tasked with mapping and surveying the regions' borders. Unlike his counterparts who owned large homes in India and traveled occasionally to their posts in the outlying Himalayas, White settled with his family in Sikkim, where they remained for over two decades.

The Aim of the Expedition

To retrace Claude White’s footsteps in reverse, i.e. Starting from Mangan (North Sikkim) we will enter the Dzongu valley. After Spending a few days in villages like Lingzya, Pentong and Sakyong, we will launch ourselves to the unexplored terrain of upper Talung Chu valley. On reaching the Talung glacier from East we plan to cross the Guicha la and come down to Yoksum in West Sikkim following the trekking trail via, Lamoni, Thangsing, Kokchurung, Tsoka. If we are successful Claude White’s route will be repeated (though in reverse) for the first time since 1890. This will also open up new trekking options in the Talung Valley.

The Expedition starts on March 7, 2011 from Mangan.

Team:
Ong Tsering Lepcha Pakimo
Thendup Sherpa
Anindya Mukherjee

Duration: 3 weeks to 1 month

Singekang Expedition: News in AAJ by Dr. Jeremy Windsor

2011-02-13T09:13:00.000-08:00

It is always great to see an idea take shape. An unknown valley in Spiti that only existed in a map is now explored, seen, documented and now published. Here is a link from the American Alpine Journal.Adventure Mania is proud to be an integral part of this Expedition. After all, this is what we stand for...freedom of the hills~

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/himachal-pradesh/2010-singekang-snaght-kang-by-j-windsor/

Expedition to Mount Shivling (West Ridge) Garhwal, August-September 2011

2011-01-22T06:53:00.000-08:00

Our Route: West Ridge

EXPEDITION DURATION: August 24, 2011 to September 20, 2011

Adventure Mania’s aim for this expedition is to keep the team small (beyond basecamp 4 climbing members+ 6 climbing Sherpa/guide/cook) and the expedition as lightweight as possible.

Cost for 4 persons:

US$ 2750 per person

Cost Include:
IMF peak royalty
Restricted Area Fees*as applicable
Liaison Officer Cost
Environment Levy
State Government Fees
Airport Transfer
All accommodation in hotels/guest houses en route road head
All major meals, breakfast en route road head
Hotel in Delhi*
All transport to and fro Delhi
All food up to Base Camp and High Camps
Porters/ponies up to Base Camp
Cook, Kitchen helper in Base
High Altitude Porters to ferry loads, set up high camps, fix ropes etc
Climbing Guide’s* support up to Summit
Base Camp Tents for Members, Kitchen and Dining Tent
Kitchen Utensils and Fuel

Cost Exclude:
Food, transport in Delhi
International flights, Airport Tax, Visa costs
Insurance
Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet
Cost of evacuation in case on accidents or emergencies
Any expense of personal nature
Tips, Laundry, Bar Bills, Telephone Calls, Mineral water,customs clearance

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING EMAIL: anindya.avenuremania@gmail.com

KIlimanjaro-Machame Route-December 2011- Price and service update

2011-01-10T22:29:00.000-08:00

Kilimanjaro Machame route (6 days trek) December 2011
• Cost per member: US$1800 (for group size 4-6 people)
• Cost per member: US$ 1700 (for group size 7-12 people)
• Arusha/Moshi Hotels’ tariff range from $35 to $200 per night. On request Adventure Mania can book your extra hotel nights. 2 nights in Arusha is already included in your trek price
• Wildlife safari can be added at the end of the trek. Safari costs $170 per person per day ( safari itinerary suggested in the following pages)

There are 12 places available on this expedition

2011 Expeditions and Trips

2010-12-18T18:12:00.000-08:00

Goecha La Trek & climbing Jopuno Peak
Where: West Sikkim, India
When: Monday, March 28, 2011 to
Saturday, April 16, 2011

Roop Kund Trek
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Monday, May 23, 2011 to
Sunday, June 12, 2011

Satopanth (7075m) Expedition
Where: Garhwal Himalaya, India
When: Friday, July 1, 2011 to
Saturday, July 30, 2011

Guided ascents in the Swiss Alps
Where: Bernese Alps, Switzerland
When: Saturday, August 27, 2011 to
Saturday, September 10, 2011

Kilimanjaro- a high altitude trek
Where: Tanzania
When: Saturday, December 3, 2011 to
Saturday, December 10, 2011

Trek Goechala and Climb Jopuno Peak- March April 2011

2010-12-18T06:48:00.000-08:00

Climb/Trek
28 Mar - 16 Apr 2011

Trek Only
28 Mar - 11 Apr 2011

Other dates for the Goecha La will be up soon. If you have at least 2 people, just send a message/email.

Prices:
Climb/Trek: £1690 pp
Trek only: £1065
Based on twin share

No of Days:
Climb/Trek 18 days
Trek only 13 days

Min Group Size: 4

The Goecha La trekking route and Mt Jopuno are both located in Sikkim. This route is one of the very few open in the Kangchenjunga National Park. The Pass itself (Goecha La, 4940m) is just 15km from the 3rd highest mountain in the world (Kanchenjunga, 8598m).

Sikkim is steeped in political history, which gives it a wonderful mix of Nepali, Indian and Tibetan culture . It is a real journey just to get there!

Join us in March 2011 for this challenging and rare opportunity to summit Jopuno (5952m). No previous climbing experience is necessary.

The Goecha La trek can be done on its own, or you can choose to add on the climb to Jopuno. The latter will only take place once or twice a year. The journey and mechanics of the trip are the same; the trekking peak trip clearly takes longer.

For both trips....on arrival in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), you will be met and taken into the city where you can relax and acclimatise into your surroundings. The next day, you will be transferred to the domestic airport for your short flight to Bagdogra and subsequent drive up to the capital of the tea plantations - Darjeeling.

Accommodated in good standard hotels, you have the evening to explore this historic place, which has strong links with Britain and the Gurhkas.

The following day, you then drive into Sikkim and up to Yuksum to be in position for the start of the trek in the morning.

The Climb/Trek and Trek only options use the same acclimatisation plan up to what is the Base Camp for Jopuno (Thangsing). From here, the Trek continues up to the Pass. There are few (if any) better views of the Kangchenjunga Massif, the 3rd highest mountain on the planet behind Everest and K2.

The Climb/Trek uses the Base Camp to cement their acclimatisation before moving up to High Camp and the summit attempt itself. Summit day is long and demanding and there is a real sense of climbing as you ascend up the hard packed snow using crampons on a fixed rope. Waiting at the top is a fantastic 360 degree vista of the Himalaya stretching as far as the eye can see. There are spare days in case a second attempt is required.

During your trek, you will come to see just how beautiful this remote area is. The wooded hills are abundant with oak, spruce, chestnut, fir, pines and magnolia not to mention the vibrant rhododendrons when in bloom (May). Accompanying them are brown bears, black bears, barking deer, marble cats, blue sheep, wild goats, Himalayan antelope, red pandas and much more.

Once you have returned to Yoksum, you will spend 1 night there prior to your drive to Kalimpong for a day off without a rucksack!

It will take just a further day to get back to Kolkata via Bagdogra.

An overnight stay in Kolkata brings you to the end of your trip, although you are welcome to extend your stay in this city (which can be arranged for you) if you wish. You will be transferred to the international airport for your flight home.

Includes: Domestic return flights Kolkata to Bagdogra, return domestic airport transfers, all group hotel accommodation in Kolkata, Darjeeling, Yuksom and Kalimpong (B&B basis), tented accommodation on trek, all food on trek, all group road transport, services of an english speaking guide, porterage.

In addition, where applicable: all IMF climbing royalties, Sikkim entry permits, services of Liaison Officers and all group climbing equipment (ie fixed ropes).

Excludes: International flights, personal travel insurance, gratuities (Guides and Porters), Tourist Entry Visa, International and internal air Departure Taxes (if applicable), personal spending, some meals (shown on the full itinerary)- send us email for the detailed itinerary.

Roop Kund Trek May-June 2011 with Adventure Mania

2010-12-17T07:11:00.000-08:00

This serene lake at 5029m / 16,595ft hides a secret. Some thirty years back the skeletal remains of 600 ill-fated humans and was found near the lake. It is still uncertain when and how theses ill-fated souls met their end but once the snow melts these can still be seen. The trek culminates in one the most spectacular views of the Trishul and Nandagunti peaks and is well worth it as the trail is replete with lush green meadows and rich forests of Pine and Cedar.

Outline Itinerary

Day 1: On your arrival we meet you at the International Airport in New Delhi which is most often in the early hours of the morning and drive you to your pre-reserved hotel. The entire day is free for you to either relax in your room or explore this exciting city, its colourful bazaars and medieval and colonial monuments.

Day 2: We leave after breakfast and drive 240 Kms to the holy city of Rishikesh in the Himalayan foothills with its profusion of Ashrams and temples lined up above the sacred River Ganga (Ganges) that originates high above and flows 2000 Kms across the plains to spill into the Bay of Bengal. Overnight in a pre-reserved hotel.

Day 3: Today we take a 10 hour drive to the quaint hamlet of Mandoli 265 Kms from Rishikesh. We set up camp for the night a little beyond the Mundoli village at 2134m / 7142ft.

Day 4: leaving our camp after breakfast we proceed to a grassy ridge at 2350m which affords excellent views of the hillsides and also a glimpse at the Nanda Ghunti peak towering to 6861m / 22,641ft. On our walk today we encounter a few tiny villages inhabited by friendly mountain folk who seemed to have stopped their clocks somewhere in the 19 th century. By early afternoon we begin our ascent along the Wan River to Wan - 2450m / 8085ft village where we reach an enchanting old Rest House built by the British. We set up our camp on its lawns and stroll over to the gigantic Deodar (Himalayan Cypress) tree and see the shrine devoted to one of many deities of Nanda Devi.

Day 5: Today's trail is well defined and descends to a pleasant path before a steep ascent through cool oak and chestnut forests and later past tall Rhododendrons. The trail ascends above the tree line and takes us to a lush green meadow known as Bedni Bugyal at 3350m / 10,050ft . Bugyals are extensive alpine grasslands that also serve as pastures for local livestock. Our camp here is one of the most striking sites in the Himalayas as we get to see unmatchable views of an amazing stretch of dazzling mountain peaks to the north. Among these stand Trishul (7120m / 23,496ft) and the Nanda Ghunti at 6861m / 22,641ft along with other towering peaks of the Greater Himalayas.

Day 6: The trail ascends gradually up to the 4500m / 14,850ft high Kovali pass and then descends to an enchanting stone shelter used by shepherds and pilgrims at Bugubasa 4100m . We set up camp here for the night.

Day 7: Today's trek is full of spectacular views of Trishul peak its snow slopes glittering in the sun. As we climb up a steep hillside a bit tiring but worth the effort as the placid glaciated Roop Kund Lake (5029m / 16,595ft) in a wide depression suddenly appears after crossing a ridge. From here the Trishul is closer displaying its majesty with unforgettable views. The Nanda Devi Biosphere and National Park is within a days walk. We camp near the lake for the night.

Day 8: Today we head back the way we came till we reach the beautiful meadows at Bedni Bugyal where we camp for the night.

Day 9: The trail from the meadows goes downhill and then enters a forest to end at a pleasant meadow where we have lunch. From here we walk uphill to a low mountain pass - Kukin Khal (3121m / 10,299ft ) marking the watershed between the Nandakini and Kali Ganga rivers draining the slopes of the Nanda Devi sanctuary. The wildlife here includes -leopard, barking deer, porcupine and musk deer while the avian species consist of the Himalayan Griffon, Lammergeyer, Golden Eagle and kites. Our last leg of the day brings us to Kanol village at 2900m / 9570ft where we camp near a grove of Rhododendron. This is also where the explorers Shipton and Tilman camped 70 years ago.

Day 10: After breakfast gazing at the might Trishul peak and the surrounding rich green fields, we descend to the Nandakini River. After lunch we walk along a pleasant path through pine forests and a few villages. Crossing the Nandakini over an iron bridge we walk a little further before setting up our camp on the river banks.

Day 11 : Today's trail goes along the fertile valley bypassing charming villages under the gaze of stately mountains at the heart of the Nanda Devi region; we stop for lunch at a delightful spot with excellent views. Refreshed, we take on a steep ascent to reach the large Ramni village at 1982m / 6540ft, enroute visiting an ancient temple.

Day 12: Today is a short day's trek involving a steady climb through forests to the Ramni Pass at 3215m / 10,609ft a mountain ridge from where you can see the Kuari pass far ahead. We then continue through dense forests of Oak, Chestnut and Rhododendron that rise above an undergrowth of exotic wild flowers. You may chance upon wild pheasant, jungle fowl and the beautiful Monal. By afternoon we set up camp in a forest glen. Take short walks or simply relax in the soothing silence.

Day 13: As we continue our trek through delightful forest we reach Jhenipani village at 1524m / 5029ft. From here we descent a steep hill slope to the Bireh Ganga torrent over which we cross a large suspension bridge to begin a steep winding ascent to our lunch spot on the hillside. We can also see the remnants of the Gohna Lake formed due to a massive landslide in 1893 and which later broke through the make shift dam resulting in a devastating flood down river. We continue our walk through pastures and forests to the small village of Pana and climb up to the small meadow of Kalighat where we set up our camp for the night.

Day 14: Today we head towards the Kuari Pass as we cross the last pastures (Bugyals) and go down a steep path to the Pal Gudhera stream. From here a steep climb takes us through rocky forested hills - an ancient trade route linking the southern Garhwal villages with Tibet and frequented by traders carrying grain and returning with salt and borax from Tibet. By afternoon we reach the small pastures of Dhakwani at 3120m / 10,296ft at the base of the pass.

Day 15: After an early breakfast we start our steady ascent to the Kuari Pass on which we get to see an unforgettable sunrise on the glistening Himalayan mountain peaks. Two hours later we reach the saddle of the Kuari col at 3658 / 12,071ft and climbing further to the Kuari ridge at 4268m / 14,084ft are rewarded by spectacular views of the Great Himalayas forming the border with Tibet. We get to identify Kamet (7756m); Badrinath (7135m); Changabang (6863m); Hathi Parvat (6727m); Neel Kanth (6595m) and the stupendous Nanda Devi (7816m). We then continue downhill to our campsite below the pass to experience unforgettable sunsets over these mountains.

Day 16: The last day of our trek as we walk down a long winding slope to the hamlet of Tapovan at 1978m / 6527ft through forests and meadows. Tapovan was once on the ascent route for climbing the Nanda Devi peak. From here we board our jeeps to drive through the Dhauliganga valley arriving in time for lunch at the temple town of Joshimath (1875m / 6187ft). We check into the rest house for the night.

Day 17: Today's drive is along the Alaknanda River to the Shivalik foothills and finally to Srinagar town where we check into a rest house for the night.

Day 18: Today we drive down to Haridwar the place from where we began our exploratory journey into the high Himalayas and after lunch drive back to Delhi to check into your pre-reserved hotel for a rest. We give you a farewell dinner before taking you to the International airport to board your flight for your next destination.

Climb Kilimanjaro with Adventure Mania December 2011

2010-12-10T18:24:00.000-08:00

MOUNT KILIMANJARO

MACHAME ROUTE

Duration: 6 Days (Dec 3, 2011 to Dec 10, 2011)

Total hiking distance: About 100 km's

This is probably the most beautiful route up Kilimanjaro. All your equipment and supplies are portered and a cook prepares all your meals. Where accommodation on the Marangu route is in huts, the Machame route offers strictly tents only This makes Machame (also referred to as the "Whiskey route") better suited to the slightly more adventurous hiker, however rewarding him with a scenic splendor such as not seen on the Marangu route. From late afternoon sunsets at Shira, to the misty revelations of Kibo at the great Barranco Wall, the Machame route offers the adventurous hiker a stunning scenic "slide show" over 6 days. The Machame route is normally completed in a minimum of 6 days. There is an added benefit to this, as you are afforded the most valuable commodity on the mountain - acclimatisation. The Machame route takes you high to Lava Tower (4630m) on the day 3 and brings you down by nearly 700m for an overnight at Barranco camp (3950m). This is the secret to successful acclimatisation.

DAY 1

Machame Gate (1490m) - Machame camp (2980m)

Hiking time: 7 hours
Distance: About 18 km's
Habitat: Mountain forest

Your day starts early with a briefing, followed by breakfast and a 45-minute drive from Moshi (910m) to the Machame village (1490m). The guides and porters prepare and pack the supplies and your equipment in the village. You will receive a lunch pack and you can also buy mineral water in the village. Depending on the condition of the road, it is possible to drive from the village to the Machame gate, but if not, the muddy 3 km walk will take about 1 hour to complete. After registering at the gate office, you start your ascent and enter the rain forest almost immediately. There is a strong possibility of rain in the forest, which will transform the trail into a very soggy, muddy and slippery experience. You will have a welcome lunch stop about half way and will reach the Machame camping area in the late afternoon.

Your porters (arriving at the camp site long before you) will have erect your tent on your arrival. In the evening the porters will boil drinking and washing water and the cook will prepare dinner, before you retire to your tent for the night. Night temperatures can already drop to freezing point at this campsite.

DAY 2

Machame camp (2980m) - Shira camp (3840m)
Hiking time: 6 hours
Distance: About 9 km's
Habitat: Moorland

You rise early at Machame camp and after breakfast you climb an hour or so to the top of the forest and then for 2 hours at a gentler gradient through the moorland zone. After a short lunch and rest, you continue up a rocky ridge onto the Shira plateau. By now you will be able to see in an easterly direction, the Western Breach with its stunning glaciers. You are now due west of Kibo and after a short hike you will reach the Shira campsite at 3 840m. The porters will boil drinking and washing water, before serving dinner. The night at this exposed camp will even be colder than the previous night, with temperatures dropping to well below freezing.

DAY 3

Shira (3840m)-Lava Tower (4630m)-Barranco camp (3950m)

Hiking time: 7 hours

Distance: About 15 km's

Habitat: Semi desert
The route now turns east into a semi desert and rocky landscape surrounding Lava Tower, where you reach an altitude of 4630m after about a 5 hours walk. Lunch is served in a designated area before ascending the rocky scree path to Lava Tower (4630m). Definitely the toughest day so far. It is normally around this point, where for the first time, some climbers will start to feel symptoms of breathlessness, irritability and headaches. After lunch you descent again by almost 680m to the Barranco camping area and after reaching the high altitude of 4600m at Lava Tower, the true acclimatisation benefit of this day becomes clear. This descent to Barranco camp takes about 2 hours and offers great opportunities to take some beautiful photographs of the Western Breach and Breach Wall. The camp is situated in a valley below the Breach and Great Barranco Wall, which should provide you with a memorable sunset while you wait for the preparation of your dinner.

DAY 4

Barranco camp (3950m)- Barafu camp (4550m)
Hiking time: 7 hours
Distance: About 13 km's
Habitat: Alpine desert
After spending a night at the Great Barranco Wall (a very imposing sight at first), you make your way up this awesome looking obstacle, which in the end normally turns out easier than what you anticipated. Topping out just below the Heim Glacier, you now appreciate just how beautiful Kilimanjaro really is. The route then heads down through the Karanga Valley over intervening ridges and valleys, and then joins up with the Mweka route. This is the preferred route down from the summit, so remember it. Turn left up the ridge and after another hour or so, you reach Barafu Hut.

The last water stop on the route is the Karranga Valley, as there is no water at Barafu camp. Barafu is the Swahili word for "ice" and it is a bleak and inhospitable camping area to spend the night. Totally exposed to the ever-present gales the tents are pitched on a narrow, stony, and dangerous ridge. Make sure that you familiarise yourself with the terrain before dark to avoid any accidents. The summit is now a further 1345m up and you will make the final ascent the same night. Prepare your equipment, ski stick and thermal clothing for your summit attempt. This should include the replacement of your headlamp and camera batteries and make sure you have a spare set available as well. To prevent freezing it will be wise to carry your water in a thermal flask. Go to bed at round about 19h00 and try to get some precious rest and sleep.

DAY 5

SUMMIT ATTEMPT

Barafu camp (4550m)-Uhuru Peak (5895m)-Mweka (3100m)

Hiking time: 8 hours to reach Uhuru Peak

7/8 hours to descend to Mweka

Distance: About 7 km's ascent - 23 km's descent

Habitat: Stone scree and ice-capped summit
You will rise around 23h30, and after some tea and biscuits you shuffle off into the night. You will head in a northwesterly direction and ascend through heavy scree towards Stella Point on the crater rim. This 6-hour walk to Stella point is for many climbers, mentally and physically the most challenging on the route. At Stella Point (5685m) you will stop for a short rest and will be rewarded with the most magnificent sunrise you are ever likely to see (weather permitting). From Stella Point you will normally encounter snow all the way on your 2-hour ascent to Uhuru Peak. The time you will spend on the summit will depend on the weather conditions. Do not stop here for too long, as it will be extremely difficult to start again due to cold and fatigue. Enjoy your accomplishment and a day to remember for the rest of your live. The walk back to Barafu from the summit, takes about 3 hours. Here you will have a well earned but short rest and collect the rest of your gear, before heading down to Mweka hut (3100m). The route is not difficult and will take you down the rock and scree path into the moorland and eventually into the forest. The camp is situated in the upper forest and mist or rain can be expected in the late afternoon. Dinner, and washing water will be prepared.

DAY 6

Mweka camp (3100m)- Mweka Gate (1980m)

Hiking time: 3 hours

Distance: About 15 km's

Habitat: Forest

After an early and well-deserved breakfast, it is a short 3-hour and scenic hike back to the Park gate. It is strongly recommended not to pay your porters any tips until you and all your gear have reached the gate safely. Click here for more info on tips. At Mweka gate you sign your name and details in a register. This is also where successful climbers receive their summit certificates. Those climbers who reached Stella Point (5685m) are issued with green certificates and those who reached Uhuru Peak (5895m) receive gold certificates. From the Mweka Gate you will continue down into the Mweka village, normally a muddy 3 km (1 hour) hike. In the Mweka village you will be served a delicious hot lunch!! You now drive back to Moshi for a long over due hot shower, dinner and celebrations!! Overnight in hotel.

Satopanth Expedition July 2011

2010-11-28T20:42:00.000-08:00

Route:
--------
The route follows the footsteps of the Andre Roche's Swiss expedition that has climbed Satopanth first via the exposed north-west ridge in 1947.

Requirements:
-----------------
Climbing Satopanth is a serious and major mountaineering expedition. Since the route offers technical ice sections, participants are expected to have appropriate climbing skills. The high altitude alone requires a high degree of fitness and endurance. In addition, participants should already have some experience in high-altitude climbing.

Note

Adventure Mania sherpa and guide team will fix rope, help ferry loads and set up camps and even cook for you all along the route/trip.

OUTLINE ITINERARY ( July 1 to July 30, 2011)

Day 1: arrive Delhi
Day 2: briefing at IMF,Drive to Rishikesh
Day 3: Drive to Uttarkashi
Day 4: Admin day in Uttarkashi
Day 5: Drive to Gangotri (3000m)
Day 6: Free day in Gangotri
Day 7-8-9: trek to BC(4800m-Vasukital) via Bhujbasa(3790m)-Nandanvan(4400m)

Day 10-25: actual climbing period ( with intermediate camps at c.5300m, 5800m, 6200m. Alpine-style tactics will be used with exception of one section of fixed rope on the crux snow/ice ridge)

Day 26: trek to Bhujbasa
Day 27: trek to Gangotri,Drive to Uttarkashi
Day 28: transfer to Delhi
Day 29: de-briefing at IMF
Day 30: fly out of India

Equipment you need to bring:

Two Axes, Crampons, Helmet and lightweight Harness are required for the climb. Plastic mountain boots plus overgaiters will be needed on this trip, plus lightweight trekking shoes. Clothing is required to withstand a big temperature range from -15degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-70 litre Rucksack to carry plus large tough travel holdall for mules/portering.

Expedition Cost: US$2750 per climber

Booking deposit: US$500

Booking Deadline: bookings must be received before 15th March 2011

Cost includes:
IMF royalty
State Government fees
Gangotri National Park charges
LO charges
accommodation in hotel/guest houses in Delhi, Rishikesh, Uttarkashi,Gangotri
private transport from Delhi to road head Gangotri and back
all food/ kitchen crew during the trek and climbing period
all group camping and climbing gear
porters up to base camp
climbing sherpa support up to summit during the expedition

Cost exclude:
individual climbing and camping gears
insurance
any expense of personal nature
cost of evacuation in case of emergencies/accidents
tips
major meals in Delhi

Anglo Irish Singekang Expedition 2010

2010-10-03T21:27:00.000-07:00

The much awaited clearance from Home Department and the final clearance from IMF..we now have it all. But guess what..the embassies do not seem to have a clue...regarding issuing X- Visa...bureaucracy blues...But you know what? The Anglo-Irish Expedition to Singekang ( Led by Alan Tees)is happening..and thats all that matters...:-)

Approach: We want to drive up to the road head village of Mane Yongma from Kaza (the head quarters of Spiti). After that we will follow the trail towards Needang (shown in the map). After crossing Pomrang, we will follow the stream coming from our true right and enter the Singekang valley. This valley has no name as of now, but I am just calling it Singekang valley as the peak (6009m) at the very head of this valley is called Singekang according to my map.

PLAN:
Drive Delhi to Manali and then further to Kaza and Mane village the road head.TREK VIA POMRANG AND FOLLOWING THE STREAM COMING FROM THE GLACIER DUE WEST OF SINGEKANG PEAK. DEPENDING ON TERRAIN AND CONDITIONS; HOPE TO ESTABLISH A BASE DUE NORTH OF PEAK 5850M AND SSW OF PEAK POH 5757M

CLIMBING POTENTIAL:

LIST OF PEAKS IN THIS VALLEY:
1- PEAK 5850M
2- PEAK 6223M
3- PEAK 6091M
4- PEAK SINGEKANG- 6009M
5- PEAK 5841M
6- PEAK 5888M
7- PEAK 5836M
8- PEAK 5796M
9-PEAK POH- 5757M

Photo's from Parbati's Pillar

2010-06-14T20:40:00.000-07:00

Some images from our light weight expedition to Partbati west Ridge. A snow storm stopped us from making the first ascent of Parbati 6257m. We managed to make the first ascent of peak 5817m. Proposing to call it Parbati's Pillar.

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/UntitledAlbum?feat=directlink

Trekking the Nandadevi Trail

2010-05-07T02:58:00.000-07:00

Kuari pass trek is amongst the best in the Garhwal mountains. The trail was first charted by Lord Curzon in 1905 and ever since then it has been known as the 'Curzon Trail'. It takes you through lush green fields, remote villages and virgin forests. The view of mountains like the Mt.Nanda Devi, Kamet , Dronagiri and Hathi-Ghodi Parvat, is the reward that awaits the trekker atop this pass. When Lord Curzon trekked this route he started from Ramni to reach Kuari pass.

The maximum height reached during the course of trekking is 4268 mts and the trek is generally not very difficult. No matter how tired you get the fresh mountain breeze and the glorious scenery around will always rejuvenate you. Apart from the Pass, the two major attractions of this trip are Joshimath and Auli. Joshimath is where Sri Shankaracharya is said to have attained enlightenment. Auli is well known for it's skiing slopes.

Hi,

Yes, we are organizing a trek to Kuari Pass from October 13 to October 25, 2010.

find this event on facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Belur-India/Adventure-Mania-Himalaya/263548918039?v=photos#!/event.php?eid=392272482931&index=1

best regards,

Anindya Mukherjee 'Raja'

Find us on facebook for regular updates on our treks, climbs and expeditions:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Belur-India/Adventure-Mania-Himalaya/263548918039?v=photos#!/pages/Belur-India/Adventure-Mania-Himalaya/263548918039

Revisiting Gangotri

2010-02-08T22:56:00.000-08:00

In 1966, My uncle, Sujal Mukherjee and his friends had formed a club, based in Calcutta, called "Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee" (GGEC). For over a decade after that they kept organizing expedition to Gangotri glacier complex, to peaks such as Kedarnath, Satopanth, Bhagirathi,Mandani etc. This year in June -July 2010, I am organizing a trek to the head of Gangotri glacier. We plan to start from the temple of river Ganga at Gangotri and finish near the mighty walls of Chaukhamba, from where the Gangotri glacier originates.This is a pilgrimage for me and will certainly be a grand adventure for anyone who joins me.

This expedition will take about a month from Delhi. Whether the Himalayan glaciers will vanish by 2035 or 2053, we don't know for sure. But one thing we know as a fact that the glaciers are melting and retreating alarmingly. You gotta see it to believe it! This trip can be a eye opener for some of us..who would like to believe in Global Cooling!!!

On another note, ( but related to this topic) 3 years ago, I had started a porter shelter and medical post at Bhujbas, near the snout of Gangotri glacier (http://indiaporter.tripod.com/) National park fees and current regulations were not in favour our little project. This was supported by IPPG (www.ippg.net) and Dr. Jim Duff knew what was happening. But its a thing of the past.

This year's trip will also give me another opportunity to re-look and restart the project, that we long desired, at Bhujbas. Having a medical post and free night shelter for the porters' up there certainly deserves a second boost. If at all I am able to form a group for this adventure, profits made will go to rebuild and restart the shelter at Bhujbas.

I have set a departure date for this trek on June 28, 2010 from Delhi. Would be more than glad to answer and supply further info if anyone find this project interesting!

The false-color image attached show the Gangotri Glacier, situated in the Uttarkashi District of Garhwal Himalaya. Currently 30.2 km long and between 0.5 and 2.5 km wide, Gangotri glacier is one of the largest in the Himalaya. Gangotri has been receding since 1780, although studies show its retreat quickened after 1971. (Please note that the blue contour lines drawn here to show the recession of the glacier’s terminus over time are approximate.) Over the last 25 years, Gangotri glacier has retreated more than 850 meters, with a recession of 76 meters from 1996 to 1999 alone.

Indian Himalaya 2010!

2010-01-10T22:50:00.001-08:00

Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk. We are looking forward to organize treks and mountaineering expeditions to the following peaks and areas this year. Please feel free to write back if you have a specific query regarding any of our trips mentioned below. We are also providing base camp supports to independent climbing parties all over the Indian Himalaya.

for a brief introduction to the mountains in Garhawal, Kumaon and Sikkim please click the link:

http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com/2010/01/introduction-to-garhwal-kumaun-and.html

Scheduled Mountaineering Expeditions

Mt. Lama Ongden (5818m)- 20 April- 8 May, 2010- Sikkim- remote areas of Ringi Chu valley of North Sikkim. Places open.

Mt Shivling (6593m)- 5 June-4 July, 2010- Garhwal- places open: for photo tour from our Expedition to Shivling in 2008 please click on the link: http://arnarogberglind.smugmug.com/2009/shivlingmyndashow/10801390_wbD4g#754497766_b9faH ( courtesy: Arnar Emilsson and Berglind Adalsteinsdottir)

Exploration climbing: 21 August, 2010- 18 September, 2010* (Himachal Pradesh)-places open

Note: those interested in doing climbs in less known and unexplored glaciers and valleys in Indian Himalaya may contact Raja for more info on this planned expedition.

Exploration Climbing Spiti-Oct 25, 2010 to November 24, 2010

( positions filled)*

Scheduled Treks:

SINGALILA RIDGE TREK:

You can join our scheduled Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010. This will be lead by Raja and Yoga lessons will be given by Hilde Wasserfall. Dates: March 27, 2010 to April 11, 2010

For more info on this trek please email us.

SPITI-LADAKH TRAVERSE

MANALI-KAZA- PARANGLA- TSO MORIRI- TELAKONLA-MANALI TREK:

Period: 17July- 6 August 2010

KUARI PASS TREK: THE NANDA DEVI TRAIL

October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

A few places left to book and join this great trek with magnificent views of the Nandadevi and its associate mountains.Trek Grade: Easy

For a picture tour of Kuari trails click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for details Email Raja

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get involved in one of these camps that we do.

regards,

Anindya Mukherjee "Raja"
--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya

Introduction to Garhwal, Kumaun and Sikkim Himalaya

2010-01-08T22:40:00.000-08:00

A brief introduction to the mountains of Uttarakhand (Garhwal and Kumaon) and Sikkim. Discussion on climbing potential of peaks with different grades. Also includes a list of open peak by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Adventure Mania (www.adventuremania.com) organizes and leads expeditions all over the Indian Himalaya.

The Himalaya is no longer the preserve of the rich and leisurely; they have become accessible to the ordinary person and within a time span that can be fitted into normal vacation period. Indian Himalaya range stands on its own even though it does not contain high peaks of 8000 meters. Most of the high peaks, including Everest, have now been climbed over a 100 times. Once the interest in them has waned, ranges such as those in India, will be the mountaineer’s playground.

The Himalayan chain is spread across the Asian continent, going South East to North West. Generally, the Himalaya, Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush are talked about as part of one chain. When we are talking of the ‘Indian Himalaya’ we are talking of the part of the Himalayan Mountains, which falls within Indian Territory. Starting from the East, the Indian Himalaya, originate from a knot between Myanmar-China and India, from where the Brahmaputra river enters Arunachal Pradesh. The chain continues till the border of Bhutan. Beyond that we have Sikkim. Sikkim is part of India since 1974. Sikkim has many peaks including the world’s third highest, the mighty Kangchendzonga. The Himalayan ranges due west of this are in the Nepalese area till we reach the borders of Kumaon and Garhwal (present day Uttarakhand). From here, without a break, the Indian Himalaya range continues over Kinnaur, Spiti, Ladakh and lastly East Karakoram. The areas further west are controlled by Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Truly there are no ‘Everests’ to be climbed in the Indian Himalaya, for the only 8000 m peak in India is Kangchendzonga. But, if you are interested in smaller peaks, literally hundreds over 6000 meters and many over 7000 meters are here and waiting in the Indian Himalaya. Many valleys are still unexplored and numerous peaks awaiting their first ascents. Unbelievable, but true! Indian Himalaya, rich with its less explored valleys and glaciers, magnificent with it’s out of the ordinary summits, and historical perspectives; will be the mountaineering destination of the World in the years to come.

Uttarakhand: Garhwal & Kumaon

Garhwal
To start with the central part of the Indian Himalaya we must first mention ‘Garhwal’. The Gangotri glacier complex in Garhwal is a region that probably attracts the highest number of mountaineering expeditions each year. It is here; perhaps the most coveted mountains of Indian Himalaya are located. Satopanth, Shivling, Sudarshan Parvat, Thalay Sagar, Meru are just a few of the summits that are pride of the area.

Another landmark of Garhwal is of course Kamet, standing tall over the Saraswati valley. It was from this valley that early travellers like the Hindu Guru Sankaracharya and the Spanish priest, Father Andrade, crossed to Tibet over the Mana Pass. The peak of Kamet (7756m) was attempted several times and finally in 1931, Frank Smythe, R.L.Holdsworth and Eric Shipton reached the summit.
Western Garhwal is also called ‘Gibson territory’- as testimony to his Jack Gibson’s dedicated training efforts of young Indian mountaineers. Here on the slopes of Kalanag (6387m, also called Black Peak) and Swargarohini, Indians learnt the sport of climbing.

Kumaon
Perhaps the most important, beautiful, majestic and outstanding mountain is here in Kumaon. Nanda Devi (7816m)! In fact it is the centerpiece of the Indian Himalaya. The exploration of its route to its base, in to the sanctum sanctorum of the mountain was done in 10934 by Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. Its ascent in 1936 and all the subsequent expeditions are part of mountaineering history. Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri, Rishi Pahar, Bethartoli Himal are the other notable mountains of the famous Nanda Devi sanctuary. It is now allowed to climb all the mountains located on the outer rim of the sanctuary. The inner sanctuary remains closed to mountaineering still, a very controlled trekking trail is being opened to trekkers. Just outside the sanctuary on the South East side there are some fascinating mountains like Nanda Kot, Changuch, Nanda Khat. Going further East the famous Pancha Chuli group of peaks stands tall overlooking the Milam valley.

For the non technical and beginners one can choose Thelu, Koteswar or Rudugaira in Gangotri region. Kalanag in the Tons area can be chosen as a moderate objective requiring basic snow and ice climbing techniques. Kamet, Nanda Devi East, Shivling, Satopanth and many others will fall under the category of major mountaineering expedition, involving multiple camps, load ferries, fix ropes and advance glacier travel techniques and above all acclimatization.

Sikkim
Sikkim became an Indian state in 1974. Kangchendzonga is the prime attraction in Sikkim Himalaya. But there are many in their ranges that offer excellent climbing opportunities. Jopuno (5650m) and Tinchinkhang (5936m) are such peaks in the Dzongri- Goecha La area of West Sikkim. In fact Jopuno is ideal for first time Himalayan summit. For those who have been sharpening their climbing skills and stamina in the Alps, Jopuno would be an ideal peak to try themselves. It has the ideal mix of glacial walk, snow, ice and rock climbing. Other major peaks in the neighbourhood are Rathong, Kabru, Kokthang, Forked Peak. Pandim, a beautiful mountain, remains unclimbed as it a ‘holy peak’ to the Sikkimese people and out of bounds for climbing, just as Kanchendzonga. Sikkim authorities have recently relaxed its bureaucray and declared Lama Angden and Brum Khangtse in North Sikkim and Tinchinkhang in West Sikkim as peaks open to mountaineers.

Mountains requiring varying degrees of abilities and skills are spread across the Indian Himalaya range. From the Himalayan beginner to the very extreme alpinist, Uttarakhand and Sikkim has mountains to offer to everyone! I will make an attempt to site a few mountains that are suitable for beginners in the Himalaya and will also mention the other important areas and peaks. Indian Mountaineering Foundation is the apex body regulating all the mountaineering across the Indian Himalaya. Anyone wishing to climb a peak has to pay requisite fees, apply through this organization and abide by the rues and regulations set by the Government of India. For more information please visit their official website: www.indmount.org

Adventure Mania (www.adventuremania.com) organizes and leads expeditions all over the Indian Himalaya.

The following is list of peaks that are open to climbing parties:
Open Peaks in Uttarakhand

Name of Peak and height (in meters)
Longitude
Latitude
Route
1
Panwali Dwar(6663)
79 57’
30 17’
Song(RH) - Khati - Dwalio - Phukia - Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit
2
Nanda Devi East (7437 )
79 59’
30 21’
Munsyari (RH) - Lilam - martoli(Vill) - nasanpatti - Bhadeligwar BC - C - I,C - II,C - II and summit attempt
3
Nanda Khat ( 6545 )
79 58’
30 18’
Bharari(RH) - Loharkhet - Khati - Dwali(Vill) - Base Camp,C - I,C - II,C - III summit attempt
4
Mrigthuni (6855 )
79 49’
30 17’
-do-

5
Maiktoli ( 6803 )
79 52’
30 16
-do-

6
Trishul-I ( 7120 )
76 46’
30 18’
Ghat(RH) - Sitel - Sutol - Lat Kopri - Chandniya Ghat - BC - C - I,C - II,C - III and summit attempt
7
Trishul-II (6690 )
79 46’
30 17’
-do-

8
Trishul-III (6008 )
79 48’
30 17’
-do-

9
Tharkot (6099 )
79 49’
30 13’
Bharari (RH) - Khati via Dhakuri - Jatolia - Sunder Dunga - Sukhran Cave BC - C - I,C - II,C - II and sumit attempt
10
Nanda Ghunti (6390 )
79 43’
30 20’
Debal(RH) - Hemkund(BC) - Roopkund - attempt nanda ghunit via the Ronti Saddle
11
Ronti (6063 )
79 43’
30 22’
-do-

12
Bhanoti (5645 )
79 50’
30 12’
Bharai (RH) Loharkhet - Dhakuri - Khati(Vill) Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
13
Baljuri (5922 )
79 57’
30 15’
Bharari(RH) - Loharkhet - Dhakuiri - Khati(Vill)Base Camp - C - I,C - II,C - III and summit attempt
14
Nanda Kot (6861 )
80 04’
30 16’
Son(RH) - Loharkhet - Dhakuri Pass - Khati(Vill) - Dwali - C - I,C_II and summit attempt
15
Laspa Dhura ( 5913 )
80 04’
30 14’
-do-

16
Unnamed Peak
77 16’
32 32’
Domphu Gompa (RH) Khoksar Nai - Tempala Pass (BC) - CiI summit attempt
17
Bara Sukha
78 36’
31 04’
Uttarkashi - Dunga - Pura(RH) - Tangua - Rania - base Camp - C - I & C - II then summit attempt
18
Rudugaira (5819 )
78 52’
30 56’
Gangotri (RH) Tapovan - BC - then summit
19
Swargtrohini - I
(6252 )
78 30’
31 06’
Dehradun - natwar & Sankiri(RH) - Taluka - Osala - BC - BC - I and summit attempt
20
Swargtrohini - II
(6278 )

78 30’
31 06’
-do-
21
Banderpunchi
(6320 )

78 33’
31 00’
-do-
22
Sriknath (6133 )
78 48’
30 57’
Uttarkashi - Bhatwari - Sukki(RH) - Hasilalsong Tel Gad Nullah - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
23
Gangotri-I ( 6672 )
78 50’
30 55’
Gangotri(RH) - Ruduagira Nallah - BC - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
24
Gangotri - II ( 6590 )
78 51’
30 54’
-do-

25
Gangotri - III (6577 )
78 52’
30 48’
-do-

26
Jaonli ( 6632 )
78 51’
30 52’
-do-

27
Jogin-I ( 6465 )
78 55’
30 52’
-do-

28
Jogin-II (6342 )
78 55’
30 53’
Gangotri (RH) - Ruduagira nallah - BC - C - I - C - II and summit attempt
29
Jogin-III (6166 )
78 56’
30 52’
-do-

30
Thalaysagar (6904)
78 59’
30 51’
-do-

31
Manda (6568 )
79 00’
29 55’
Gangotri - Chirbas - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
32
Meru North ( 6450 )
79 02’
29 52’
Gangotri - Chirbas - Gaumukh - Tapovan - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
33
Meru East (6261 )
79 02’
29 52’
-do-

34
Kirti Stambh
(6270 )
79 01’
30 49’
Gangotri - Chirbas - Gaumukh - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
35
Bhatekhunta
(6578 )
79 02’
30 48’
-do-

36
Kedarnath (6962 )
79 04’
30 47’
-do-

37
Kedardome (6830 )
79 04’
30 48’
-do-

38
Karcha Kund
(6632 )
79 07’
30 46’
-do-

39
Shivling (6543 )
79˚ 04’
30 52’
Gangotri - Gaumukh - Nandaban - BC - I,BC - II and sumit attempt
40
Bhagirathi - I ( 6856 )
79˚ 09’
30 51’
-do-

41
Bhagirathi-II
(6512 )

79˚ 09
30 51’
-do-
42
Bhagirathi-III
(6454 )

79˚ 08’
30 52’
-do-
43
Vasuki Parbat (6792 )
79˚ 10’
30 52’
-do-
44
Satopanth ( 7075 )

79˚ 13’
30 50’
-do-
45
Sudarshan Parbat (6507 )
79˚ 05’
30 58’
Gangtori - Gaumukh - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
46
Changabang
(6866 )
79˚ 55’
30 29’
Joshimath (RH) Lata Vill. Belta - Latakhark - Dibrugatta - Uppr Deodi - BC - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
47
Nilkantha ( 6597 )
79˚ 24’
30 43’
Joshimath - Badrinath - BC - I and summit attempt
48
Chaukhamba-I
(7886 )
79˚ 15’
30 43’
Joshimath - Mana Vill. - BC - IBC - II ,BC - III and summit attempt
49
Chaukhamba-II
(7070 )

79˚ 15’
30 43’
-do-
50
Chaukhamba - III (6995 )

79˚ 15’
30 43’
-do-
51
Chaukhamba-IV
(6854 )

79˚ 15’
30 43’
-do-
52
Changuch ( 6322 )
80˚ 02’
30 17’
Bharari (RH) - Loharkhet - Khati - Dwali Vill - Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit attempt

Other Peaks in Uttarakhand

Peak
Height
Longitude
Latitude
Route
1.
Abi Gamin
7355M
79˚ 36' 09"
30 55' 57"
Joshimath - RH - Markari - Nitti - Sapukaharak - Nand - Kharak - BC - CI - CII - CIII & CIV then summit.
2.
Burphu Dhura
6414m

3.
Mukut Parbat
7242M
79˚ 34' 12"
30 57' 08"
Joshimath - RH - Markari - Nitti - Sapu Kharak - Nand Kharak - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV then summit.
4.
Shri Parbat
6175M
79˚ 18
31 49

5.
Unnamed Peaks
6148
79˚ 16
31 50

6.
Unnamed Peaks
6044
79˚ 17
31 50

7.
Unnamed Peaks
6038
79˚ 19
31 50

9.
Arwa Spire
6193m
79˚ 22'
30 49'

10
Arwa Tower
6352m
79˚ 24'
30 51'

11.
Bhrigupanth
6772m
79˚ 00'
30 53'

12.
Black peak
6387m
78˚ 34'
31 02'

13.
Kalindi
6103m
79˚ 16'
30 55'

14.
Koteshwar
6035m
79˚ 05'
30 58'

15.
Panchchui-III
6314m
80˚ 26'
30 12'

16.
Rudugaira
5819m
78˚ 52'
30 56'

Open Peaks in Sikkim

Peak
Height
Longitude
Latitude
Route
1.
Chorten Nyima Peak
6927M
88 11'48"
35 57' 42"
Chuntang - Lachen - Zema - Rangsha - Dolmosampa - Zanak - Chorten Labsang - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
2.
Chumo Yommo
6829M
88 32'
28 02'
Singhik - Sentam - Tistariver - Lachen - Taling - Tasa Kangse - Tase Kang - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
3
Jong Song
7474M
88 08'06"
27 52' 54"
Lachen - Zemuchu - Rongsha - Dolma Sampa - Changsang - Goma - Jongsang Gl - BC - CI - CII - CIIIthen Summit.
4.
Khame Khong
6601M
88 08'
27 35'

5.
Kokthang
6147M
88 05'
27 34'
Tashiding - Toshigang - Yoksam - Bikari - Tal Pokri - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
6.
Kora Chonekang
6196M
88 22'
27 57'
Chuntang - Zema - Rongsha - Dolma Sampa - Kora Chamna - Kora Chonek - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
7.
Langchung Khang
6766M
88 11'
27 52'
Tista river - Chuntang - Lachen - Rangsha - Changsang - E Langpo Gl - BC - CI - CII - C - IIIthen summit.
8.
Langpo
6954M
88 12'
27 53'
- do -
9.
Nepal peak
7180M
88 11' 13"
27 46' 33"
Darjeeling - Kalimpong - Singpam - Mangang - Lachen - Yabuk - RH - Green Lake - BC - Zemu Gl - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV then summit.
10.
Pouhunri
7065M
88 51'
28 02'
Tista river - Chuntang - Lachung - Yuntang - Yume Samdong - Zadong - Tista Kangse - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV the summit.
11.
Sentinel Peak
6490M
88 14'
27 58'
Lachen - Rongsha - Dolma Sampa - Zanak - Pangbeteng - Chorten Labsang - BC - CI - CII - CIIIthen summit.
12.
Talung
7349M
88 08'
27 38'
Tashiding - Tashigang - Choka - Tangshing - Onglaktang - Jemachang - Talung Gl - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV then summit.
13.
Tent Peak
7365M
88 11'
27 47' 15"
Darjeleing - Kalimpong - Singpam - Mangang - Lachen - Yabuk - RH - Green Lake BC - Tent Peak Gl - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV then summit.

Unclimbed Peaks in Sikkim

Peak
Height (m)
Latt.
Long
Map no.
1
Dome Khang
7442
27 53
88 09
78-A-1
2
Kabru N.
7395
27 38
88 08
78-A-2
3
Pk 7032 (south east of Pauhunri on Khang Kyong Khangse)
7032
27 56
88 52
78-A-13
4
Pk 7033 (south of Pauhunri)
7033
27 57
88 51
78-A-13
5
Pk 7080 (north of Pauhunri)
7080
27 57
88 51
78-A-13
6
Zemu Peak
7730
27 42
88 11
78-A-2

Kuari Pass Trek 2010

2009-12-31T22:13:00.000-08:00

Kuari Pass Trek: October 13, 2010 to October 25, 2010

A few places left to book and join this great trek with magnificent views of the Nandadevi and its associate mountains.

Trek Grade: Easy

For a picture tour of Kuari trails click on the link below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/KuariPass?feat=directlink

for details Email Raja

Indian Himalaya 2010

2009-11-18T00:06:00.000-08:00

Its Indian Himalaya we are talking about and in Adventure Mania its usually more action and less talk.

2009 is almost over and we are already planning for 2010. We need climbers for the following peaks for 2010:

Mt Shivling (6593m)- August, 2010
Mt Satopanth (7050m)- August-September, 2010
Mt kalanag (6387m)- May-June 2010

You can also join our Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : March-April, 2010

We are Adventure Mania, we love our mountains! We enjoy our work in the mountains with clients from all across the globe! Since 2002, we climbed and trekked across the Indian Himalaya with success and responsibility.

Adventure Mania team consists of climbers and Sherpas who have vast experience in the Indian Himalaya. Although we prefer climbing in less known valleys and glaciers and smaller peaks; we have been to major Indian Himalaya peaks like Shivling, Kamet, Changabang, Nandaghunti, Srikailash, Bhagirathi, Chowkhamba, Srikailash, Kalanag, Manirang, Swargarohini.....just to name a few.

It is true that apart from Kanchenjunga, we do not have any 8000m peaks! What we have is countless less known glaciers and mountain peaks ranging from 5000m to 7000m (and many of them are unclimbed..still!!!); valleys very few tourists have hiked; rivers seldom rafted down; culture so deep rooted and vibrantly colourful people. And these all are but the finest components that can make your trip to Indian Himalaya a truly memorable one!

This won't be entirely out of place to mention that all our trips are very personalized. We are totally invested in all our trips, right from planning it to executing it in the field. We are with you during your trip from the start to the finish, be it a trek or a mountaineering expedition. That is why sometimes it may take us a little while to reply your mail.

Whatever is happening or about to happen with Adventure Mania, we post on this blog:
http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com

If you are interested to join any of our scheduled treks or climbing adventures,please visit our website: www.adventuremania.com. Or please bear with us to give you a detailed reply for your message.

We are also regular treks to remote Sikkim, Garwal and Kumaun, Himachal Pradesh regions.We also offer full service guided ascents on non technical summits.

Adventure Mania Charity:

we could not do something permanent for the porters at Bhujbas, Gangotri. The current National Park laws does not allow us stay up there. So now we have decided to build up an equipment pool with old used mountain clothing to be given to porters and their families. We also conduct free medical camps for porters in their villages. You can get involved in one of these camps that we do.

Adventure Mania 2010

2009-10-08T04:47:00.001-07:00

We are all set for West Sikkim trek with Community Action Nepal in October and to a exciting exploratory expedition to Peak Kellas (6680m) in remote Lhonak Valley of North Sikkim. These two programmes will keep Adventure Mania busy till November 12, 2009. While kalyan, Indra and Kiran will accompany the trekkers on the Singalila Ridge and Dzongri trek; Thendup and Raj will be with the Kellas expedition team.

We are open for treks and climbs after November 12.

Meanwhile, we need climbers for the following peaks for 2010:

1-Exploration Climbing in the Obra Gad, Garwal Himalaya- possibilities of climbing 5000m peaks of various grade and difficulty and possible first ascents. Duration 4 weeks Ex Delhi. June 2010.

2-Mt Shivling (6593m)- August, 2010, duration 4 weeks-ex Delhi
3-Mt Satopanth (7050m)- September, 2010, duration 4 weeks- ex Delhi

4- Mt Jopuno (5650m) and Tinchinkhang( 6010m)- West Sikkim- Duration 3 weeks, ex Kolkata

February-March 2010

If mountaineering is not your thing then you can also join our Yoga trek In the Singalila Ridge : April, 2010, Duration: 2 weeks, Ex Kolkata

To see Nandadevi (7816m) up close, you can join a group for Kuari Pass (October 2010), Duration 2 weeks, ex Delhi.

please visit the Adventure Mania blog for more trip updates: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com

best regards,

Raja

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

Expedition to Peak Kellas, North Sikkim, knocking at the door

2009-10-07T02:49:00.000-07:00

3 weeks in Spiti passed swiftly. Snow and wind as constant company, we managed to trek from Kibber to the Lingti valley. The original plan to cross Parang la was abondoned due to too much new powder snow. So had to forget Tso Mo Riri this time; and focussed on the land and culture of Spiti instead.

After the trip, back in Manali, surprises and shock were waiting for me. My blogs were thoroughly spammed. This prompted me to clean my space and change all the settings hoping to ever watrchful evil eyes of the spammer. Reminds me of the black gate and the eye of Sauron (Lord Of the Rings)!

Came back home only discover my laptop sick, and desktop critical. To add to the misery, the internet device dead! So I have to catch up with my work and emails in internet cafes nowadays for a change! Not fair!

The only nice thing was probably being home in Durga Puja festivals after 7 years. It was juyst nice to be around with my son and catching up with friends.

But now the holiday is over and I am all set for expedition to peak Kellas in remotest corner of North Sikkim. Tell you what, all the permits are now done!!! Phew! Its going to be interesting as little is known about the mountain and its approaches. So I am open to challenges from all possible (and impossible) corners and of course I am not undermining the Indian and Sikkim bureaucracy. After all a piece of paper can easily blow away the peace of mind! Yes!

Kaza

2009-09-07T03:45:00.001-07:00

After getting stranded again on Rohtang Pass road, finally reached Kaza last evening. A gruelling 11 hours on the road and a well earned rest at the Himachal Tourism Hotel Spiti. It was good to see the young cook from Kullu is still there and he almost made us feel at home with a fantastic meal.

We seem to be lucky weather wise this time, though the September wind is already biting cold. Its going to be some cold nights up ahead at Parang La I am sure. Arranging transport to Kibber and permits is on top of my agenda today. Shopping for 12 days for 13 people is also happening right now. Off to Kibber tomorrow. The highest village (4250m) connected with a motorable road and electricity.

Some of us have gone to visit the nearby Dankhar Gompa, while the not so lucky ones are happily roaming in the streets of Kaza.

Since we were lucky enough not to get stranded in Kunzumla due to untimely snow fall ( read in the newspaper at Losar Police post that this snowfall broke 54 years record), I am hoping that we will make it through the next 2 weeks with safety an success. Crossing of Parangla (5580m) is the most demanding part of this 2 week trip, but what interests me more is the exit route chosen. Instead of following the obvious path to Leh after reaching the Tso Moriri , I am inclined to follow the valley of Phirtse Fu and cross Telkon La (5050m) and reach Pang, the road head.

Looking forward to do some exploring up the KIbber valey and towards kanamo (5900m) and Shilla( 6130m) Peak. It can be a good acclimatisation day for the team as well. The small peak on the left of Parangla is also in my mind. Lets see how everything goes. Safety comes first!

Next contact with internet wil be around 24 Sep. Till then good bye and peace!

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

a train, a bus and manali

2009-09-05T02:02:00.001-07:00

Kolkata to Delhi.The train journey was a nice surprise. Actually. Rajdhani Experess, haven't been on it for long time. And now I must admit that the experience is better. It has improved, the whole experience. Remarkable food especially, when this is included in your train ticket price; matters. But what matters most is panctuality of the train. And this time it was a ten on ten.

Whenever I am taking a train ride, all these comparisons come into my mind. The European trains ( especially the Swiss, French and German) are great. They are meticulously perfect on time, they are clean and look modern. The one long distance Russian train I was on was a train from Moscow to MIn Vody. It was great and different experiemce altogether. It lacked the look may be, but there was no shortage of quality of service on board. I was particularly impressed by the one lady conductor who was literraly taking care of everything in one coach. From checking our tickets to cleaning the floor. The look may be was mechanical and the built was a typical Soviet type; but I must admit there was certain warmth about it. This warmth is completely missing in European trains. The Eurpoean trains may be faster, and has more on time performances; it still lacks the human touch. The Swiss Jungfrau railway is admirable for the engineering achievements and service etc, but what it lacks is human touch. Technology and quality of service come first. Human touch later. Money first, convenience later.

Indian trains on the other hand are human first and then everything else come into the picture. The on time performances are improving. Surely we do not hear about abnormal delays any more and the cleanliness and hygiene has improved on board ( still no where near comparable to Western Standards though). Its diffrent, indeed!

Delhi as always was hectic. Running around and talking business is all I did in day. Not just meeting my clients for the upcoming trek; I had to take advantage of being in Delhi and meeting the IMF and updating the October Expedition scenario.

I have always preferred the overnight bus ride from Delhi to Manali, over flying to Kullu and the taking a taxi to manali. Not only it saves cash, but also it saves time. Instead of sleeping one night in Delhi, we are now in Manali. All the Adventure Mania boys are here too. Its a nice temperature and we are not missing the Delhi or Kolkata climate a bit.

Tomorrow we are off to kaza. A long day ( 11 hours approx) over Rohtang Pass and Kunzum pass( 4550m) and into spiti. Crossing the Great Himalayan range and into lahoul and the to the middle country of Spiti. After 2 nights in kaza we wil set out for Kibber (the highest village, connected by road 4200m) and then onwards and upwards to Parangla and Tso moriri). Adventures ahead.

This is how things are happening and I am not complaining.

Hoping to get some interest from climbers for satopanth (7075m) and Shivling (6593m) for 2010. Hope and thats the best policy sometimes. There is internet connection in Kaza. If it works , will probably do one more post before the trek.

Elbrus Album

2009-09-01T00:59:00.001-07:00

http://picasaweb.google.com/anindya.adventuremania/ElbrusRace?feat=directlink

Here is the link to the images from Elbrus Race 2008. I have added some new pics to this album from the Speed Climb organizers website. Here you can see the almost photo-finish between me and Martin on top of Elbrus.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

of mangroves, tigers & a medical boat

2009-08-30T08:09:00.000-07:00

A boat. looks ordinary from outside. Just like the boats that ferry tourists on river cruise in the Sundarban, bringing thousands each year to it's famous Tiger Reserve. Not like the huge ones used by the West Bengal Tourism. But the smaller ones which are more efficient.

I am planning to buy one.

and then, I am going to convert the interior of this boat into a medical unit. Not a very sophisticated one. It will have only the basic gears and facilities of a primary health center.

why?

while working at Cyclone hit (Aila) Bali island and its neighborhood, I was shocked by the sheer access problem to the remote islands and villages. Villagers have no access to primary health care in some villages. In most of the cases, they have to travel a long way to nearest towns; either to a private doctor or to a Government run clinic ( which is either un-manned or ill equipped in most cases).

What if I can start a project that will run this boat; which is in effect a 'mobile medical unit'...

working 365 days...run and manned by locals...all we need is some one trained in nursing and basic first aid.

this is still an idea...

I know this thought needs refining, some fine tuning and lot of planning and preparations..It will not be easy. It will take lot of commitment in the beginning. But it is not impossible.

But I also know...that when this idea has come in my mind..I will do it.

I can not do it all on my own; because most part of the year I am in the mountains. If you it's a stupid plan that's bound to fail, and I should forget about it; please let me know.

But if you feel otherwise, and feel like joining me or putting a word of advise in ear; you are most welcome.

--
Adventure Mania
official website: www.adventuremania.com
Upcoming Trips blog: http://adventuremania-india.blogspot.com
Raja's personal blog:http://himalaya-raja.blogspot.com
Real Adventure Journeys Across Himalaya
Call Raja: +91 97487 61139
Optional Number :+91 92305 11139

	Name of Peak and height (in meters)	*Longitude*	*Latitude*	*Route*
1	Panwali Dwar(6663)	79 57’	30 17’	Song(RH) - Khati - Dwalio - Phukia - Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit
2	Nanda Devi East (7437 )	79 59’	30 21’	Munsyari (RH) - Lilam - martoli(Vill) - nasanpatti - Bhadeligwar BC - C - I,C - II,C - II and summit attempt
3	Nanda Khat ( 6545 )	79 58’	30 18’	Bharari(RH) - Loharkhet - Khati - Dwali(Vill) - Base Camp,C - I,C - II,C - III summit attempt
4	Mrigthuni (6855 )	79 49’	30 17’	-do-
5	Maiktoli ( 6803 )	79 52’	30 16	-do-
6	Trishul-I ( 7120 )	76 46’	30 18’	Ghat(RH) - Sitel - Sutol - Lat Kopri - Chandniya Ghat - BC - C - I,C - II,C - III and summit attempt
7	Trishul-II (6690 )	79 46’	30 17’	-do-
8	Trishul-III (6008 )	79 48’	30 17’	-do-
9	Tharkot (6099 )	79 49’	30 13’	Bharari (RH) - Khati via Dhakuri - Jatolia - Sunder Dunga - Sukhran Cave BC - C - I,C - II,C - II and sumit attempt
10	Nanda Ghunti (6390 )	79 43’	30 20’	Debal(RH) - Hemkund(BC) - Roopkund - attempt nanda ghunit via the Ronti Saddle
11	Ronti (6063 )	79 43’	30 22’	-do-
12	Bhanoti (5645 )	79 50’	30 12’	Bharai (RH) Loharkhet - Dhakuri - Khati(Vill) Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
13	Baljuri (5922 )	79 57’	30 15’	Bharari(RH) - Loharkhet - Dhakuiri - Khati(Vill)Base Camp - C - I,C - II,C - III and summit attempt
14	Nanda Kot (6861 )	80 04’	30 16’	Son(RH) - Loharkhet - Dhakuri Pass - Khati(Vill) - Dwali - C - I,C_II and summit attempt
15	Laspa Dhura ( 5913 )	80 04’	30 14’	-do-
16	Unnamed Peak	77 16’	32 32’	Domphu Gompa (RH) Khoksar Nai - Tempala Pass (BC) - CiI summit attempt
17	Bara Sukha	78 36’	31 04’	Uttarkashi - Dunga - Pura(RH) - Tangua - Rania - base Camp - C - I & C - II then summit attempt
18	Rudugaira (5819 )	78 52’	30 56’	Gangotri (RH) Tapovan - BC - then summit
19	Swargtrohini - I (6252 )	78 30’	31 06’	Dehradun - natwar & Sankiri(RH) - Taluka - Osala - BC - BC - I and summit attempt
20	Swargtrohini - II (6278 )	78 30’	31 06’	-do-
21	Banderpunchi (6320 )	78 33’	31 00’	-do-
22	Sriknath (6133 )	78 48’	30 57’	Uttarkashi - Bhatwari - Sukki(RH) - Hasilalsong Tel Gad Nullah - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
23	Gangotri-I ( 6672 )	78 50’	30 55’	Gangotri(RH) - Ruduagira Nallah - BC - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
24	Gangotri - II ( 6590 )	78 51’	30 54’	-do-
25	Gangotri - III (6577 )	78 52’	30 48’	-do-
26	Jaonli ( 6632 )	78 51’	30 52’	-do-
27	Jogin-I ( 6465 )	78 55’	30 52’	-do-
28	Jogin-II (6342 )	78 55’	30 53’	Gangotri (RH) - Ruduagira nallah - BC - C - I - C - II and summit attempt
29	Jogin-III (6166 )	78 56’	30 52’	-do-
30	Thalaysagar (6904)	78 59’	30 51’	-do-
31	Manda (6568 )	79 00’	29 55’	Gangotri - Chirbas - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
32	Meru North ( 6450 )	79 02’	29 52’	Gangotri - Chirbas - Gaumukh - Tapovan - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
33	Meru East (6261 )	79 02’	29 52’	-do-
34	Kirti Stambh (6270 )	79 01’	30 49’	Gangotri - Chirbas - Gaumukh - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
35	Bhatekhunta (6578 )	79 02’	30 48’	-do-
36	Kedarnath (6962 )	79 04’	30 47’	-do-
37	Kedardome (6830 )	79 04’	30 48’	-do-
38	Karcha Kund (6632 )	79 07’	30 46’	-do-
39	Shivling (6543 )	79˚ 04’	30 52’	Gangotri - Gaumukh - Nandaban - BC - I,BC - II and sumit attempt
40	Bhagirathi - I ( 6856 )	79˚ 09’	30 51’	-do-
41	Bhagirathi-II (6512 )	79˚ 09	30 51’	-do-
42	Bhagirathi-III (6454 )	79˚ 08’	30 52’	-do-
43	Vasuki Parbat (6792 )	79˚ 10’	30 52’	-do-
44	Satopanth ( 7075 )	79˚ 13’	30 50’	-do-
45	Sudarshan Parbat (6507 )	79˚ 05’	30 58’	Gangtori - Gaumukh - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
46	Changabang (6866 )	79˚ 55’	30 29’	Joshimath (RH) Lata Vill. Belta - Latakhark - Dibrugatta - Uppr Deodi - BC - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
47	Nilkantha ( 6597 )	79˚ 24’	30 43’	Joshimath - Badrinath - BC - I and summit attempt
48	Chaukhamba-I (7886 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	Joshimath - Mana Vill. - BC - IBC - II ,BC - III and summit attempt
49	Chaukhamba-II (7070 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	-do-
50	Chaukhamba - III (6995 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	-do-
51	Chaukhamba-IV (6854 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	-do-
52	Changuch ( 6322 )	80˚ 02’	30 17’	Bharari (RH) - Loharkhet - Khati - Dwali Vill - Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit attempt

	*Peak*	*Height*	*Longitude*	*Latitude*	*Route*
1.	Abi Gamin	7355M	79˚ 36' 09"	30 55' 57"	Joshimath - RH - Markari - Nitti - Sapukaharak - Nand - Kharak - BC - CI - CII - CIII & CIV then summit.
2.	Burphu Dhura	6414m
3.	Mukut Parbat	7242M	79˚ 34' 12"	30 57' 08"	Joshimath - RH - Markari - Nitti - Sapu Kharak - Nand Kharak - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV then summit.
4.	Shri Parbat	6175M	79˚ 18	31 49
5.	Unnamed Peaks	6148	79˚ 16	31 50
6.	Unnamed Peaks	6044	79˚ 17	31 50
7.	Unnamed Peaks	6038	79˚ 19	31 50
9.	Arwa Spire	6193m	79˚ 22'	30 49'
10	Arwa Tower	6352m	79˚ 24'	30 51'
11.	Bhrigupanth	6772m	79˚ 00'	30 53'
12.	Black peak	6387m	78˚ 34'	31 02'
13.	Kalindi	6103m	79˚ 16'	30 55'
14.	Koteshwar	6035m	79˚ 05'	30 58'
15.	Panchchui-III	6314m	80˚ 26'	30 12'
16.	Rudugaira	5819m	78˚ 52'	30 56'

	*Peak*	*Height (m)*	*Latt.*	*Long*	*Map no.*
1	Dome Khang	7442	27 53	88 09	78-A-1
2	Kabru N.	7395	27 38	88 08	78-A-2
3	Pk 7032 (south east of Pauhunri on Khang Kyong Khangse)	7032	27 56	88 52	78-A-13
4	Pk 7033 (south of Pauhunri)	7033	27 57	88 51	78-A-13
5	Pk 7080 (north of Pauhunri)	7080	27 57	88 51	78-A-13
6	Zemu Peak	7730	27 42	88 11	78-A-2