Trek and Climb with RAJA

An Alpine Season in Ladakh First Ascents of three 6000m peaks in the Khyam lungpa [1] Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee Khyam lungpa Background Sometimes, the most memorable adventures stem from the most unexpected turns. In August 2023, Christian Ranke and I, was aiming to traverse the twin summits of Kang Yatse IV, a feat that would build upon our previous success on Satopanth in 2016 [2] . Kang Yatse IV had already become familiar terrain for me—on 1st August 2021, I had been part of a team known as 2L1B (Two Ladakhi One Bengali), which made the first ‘documented’ ascent of the North summit of Kang Yatse IV (6130m). Along with Ladakhi climbers Sonam Yangjor and Stanzin Wangial Kaya, we climbed the mountain in alpine style, reaching the North Summit via the North Face-North Ridge route [3] . That ascent left me deeply connected to the region, and I was eager to return. However, this time, the mountains had different plans. After spending a week struggling up the northern slopes ...

The First Documented Ascent of Kang Yatse IV (North Summit, 6130m)  Summary On 1st August, 2021, a team of three Indian alpinists made the first documented ascent of Kang Yatse IV (6130m). They approached the mountain from its West, via the Langthang Chu valley. Using a couple of  days for reconnaissance and adopting a carry, camp and climb style, the trio first climbed the NW face and then the North ridge to reach the North Summit 6130m of the identical twin summit of KY IV. Team: Sonam Yangjor, Stanzin Wangial and Anindya Mukherjee. Duration: 24th July to 4th August, 2021.  Location: Markha and Langthang Chu Valley, Ladakh Himalaya. Grade: AD as per IFAS  Figure 1: The view of all four summits of Kang Yatse family from Hangkar, Photo: Sonam Yangjor, ©2L1B Expedition, 2021  The Mystery of the Disappearing Twin   Although these days the mountain is generally referred to as ‘Kang Yatse or Yatze’ by the locals and tourists alike, while doing the homework...

 Surrounded by Ladakh's towering peaks and an alien desolation of a landscape, a band of three had just joined forces. With an unknown valley ahead and an unscaled mountain in sight, this curious company of two ladakhis and one bengali (2L1B) -- a musician, an aspiring mountain filmmaker and a seasoned climber-- were setting a plan afoot. The goal was to push a blitz attempt on an unnamed 6000m summit, true to the essence of an alpine style climb. Treading lightly on the terrain, with the bare minimum of necessities, expenses and impact on the surroundings, the project had had to be an exercise in precise and economic execution of the alpine craft. The team went strong with the odds in their favour upto the final camp, the top within the reach of but a few more hours' worth of toil. It was just then that the skies were besieged by a fierce, battering snow storm. The onslaught of wind and snow seemed to get harsher by the hour, as frustration from the jeopardized ascent turned t...