Trek and Climb with RAJA

An Alpine Season in Ladakh First Ascents of three 6000m peaks in the Khyam lungpa [1] Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee Khyam lungpa Background Sometimes, the most memorable adventures stem from the most unexpected turns. In August 2023, Christian Ranke and I, was aiming to traverse the twin summits of Kang Yatse IV, a feat that would build upon our previous success on Satopanth in 2016 [2] . Kang Yatse IV had already become familiar terrain for me—on 1st August 2021, I had been part of a team known as 2L1B (Two Ladakhi One Bengali), which made the first ‘documented’ ascent of the North summit of Kang Yatse IV (6130m). Along with Ladakhi climbers Sonam Yangjor and Stanzin Wangial Kaya, we climbed the mountain in alpine style, reaching the North Summit via the North Face-North Ridge route [3] . That ascent left me deeply connected to the region, and I was eager to return. However, this time, the mountains had different plans. After spending a week struggling up the northern slopes ...

Sundardhunga Khal: The Solution to a Long-Standing Problem Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee ‘Raja’  Introduction The Sundardhunga Khal is 5520m (18100ft) high. It is the lowest point of the ridge connecting Maiktoli (6803m, 22320ft) and Panwali Dwar (6663m, 21860ft) and the highest point between the valleys of South Rishi glacier to its North and the Burh glacier to its South. Starting from 1932, exploratory climbers have been trying to climb the Sundardhunga Khal from the south in order to get a direct access to the inner sanctuary of Nanda Devi. Once the south face of Sundardhunga Khal is climbed, one of last exploratory problems of the Indian Himalaya will be solved.   History During May 1932, Hugh Ruttledge, Émile Rey (one of the greatest alpine guides of his generation) and six Sherpas from Darjeeling were the pioneers looking into the problem of climbing Sundardhunga Khal from the Burh glacier side, i.e. the Maiktoli valley. After taking a closer look at the face ...

The First Documented Ascent of Kang Yatse IV (North Summit, 6130m)  Summary On 1st August, 2021, a team of three Indian alpinists made the first documented ascent of Kang Yatse IV (6130m). They approached the mountain from its West, via the Langthang Chu valley. Using a couple of  days for reconnaissance and adopting a carry, camp and climb style, the trio first climbed the NW face and then the North ridge to reach the North Summit 6130m of the identical twin summit of KY IV. Team: Sonam Yangjor, Stanzin Wangial and Anindya Mukherjee. Duration: 24th July to 4th August, 2021.  Location: Markha and Langthang Chu Valley, Ladakh Himalaya. Grade: AD as per IFAS  Figure 1: The view of all four summits of Kang Yatse family from Hangkar, Photo: Sonam Yangjor, ©2L1B Expedition, 2021  The Mystery of the Disappearing Twin   Although these days the mountain is generally referred to as ‘Kang Yatse or Yatze’ by the locals and tourists alike, while doing the homework...

During the 2nd and 3rd week of December 2020, a team of 4 climbers made an attempt to climb Mt Baljuri 5922m in Him-Alpine style by the Baljuri col-North ridge route. The expedition did not use the services of any HAP or local guide beyond the traditional base camp of Baljuri and adopted a fast and light ‘carry, camp and climb’ style. The team reached Dwali (2610m) on 12th December and used two alternate ferry days via Phurkia (3189m) to station themselves at the traditional Base Camp (3600m) site of Baljuri on 16th December. During the approach march, the team encountered fresh new snow from a kilometer below Dwali and half way up to the Zero Point (3750m) the team found the trail covered in 6 inches to 1 feet of snow.  On 17th December, 3 climbers (Aniket, Rivu and Anindya) started climbing the spur that leads one to the traditional Camp-1 site of Baljuri. The spur was a mixture of frozen grass, mud and boulders under a thick and deceptive blanket of soft new snow. The trio reac...

 Surrounded by Ladakh's towering peaks and an alien desolation of a landscape, a band of three had just joined forces. With an unknown valley ahead and an unscaled mountain in sight, this curious company of two ladakhis and one bengali (2L1B) -- a musician, an aspiring mountain filmmaker and a seasoned climber-- were setting a plan afoot. The goal was to push a blitz attempt on an unnamed 6000m summit, true to the essence of an alpine style climb. Treading lightly on the terrain, with the bare minimum of necessities, expenses and impact on the surroundings, the project had had to be an exercise in precise and economic execution of the alpine craft. The team went strong with the odds in their favour upto the final camp, the top within the reach of but a few more hours' worth of toil. It was just then that the skies were besieged by a fierce, battering snow storm. The onslaught of wind and snow seemed to get harsher by the hour, as frustration from the jeopardized ascent turned t...

A Happy Ascent of Satopanth 7075m Summary: In September 2016, a small group of climbers from India and Germany climbed Satopanth (7075m) and an unnamed 6008m peak by the traditional routes in semi alpine style and without using any fixed rope on its famous north-east ridge-north face route.  Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee Satopanth from Sundar Bamak, photo: Anindya Mukherjee ~~~~~~~~ The happy climber, like the aged Ulysses, is one who has “drunk delight of battle with his peers”, and this delight is only attainable by assaulting cliffs which tax to their utmost limits of the powers of the mountaineers engaged. This struggle involves the same risk, whether early climbers attacked what we now call easy rock, or whether we moderns attack formidable rock, or whether the ideal climber of the future assaults cliffs which we now regard as hopelessly inaccessible. -A.F.Mummery [1] ~~~~~~~~ Snow coated the mountain range and one mountain in particular. All of...