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Lampak North 6181m- Full Service Climbing Expedition- Places Open

LAMPAK NORTH 6181M - Inviting Climbers    Garhwal Himalaya, India  Period: June-July 2020 Duration: 15 days ex Joshimath Reporting at: Joshimath, tentative reporting date June 20, 2020*   Grade: Moderate.   Basic snow and ice climb involving multiple camps and glacier travel . Route: Joshimath- Juma-Ruing-Garpak-Kalla Bamak-BC- ABC-C1- East Ridge Expedition type: Full service guided climb, summit support  A few words about the region The region is not much frequented and the records show only five or six visits since 1950. The first foray was by the Scottish team lead by W.H. Murray in the 1950's. There is no record of any ascents during this trip. After a gap of four decades a small team from Mumbai visited this glacier in 1990 but could not climb any peaks. They were followed, more than a decade later, by the large Punjab Police team lead by Dr. P. M. Das in 2003. They claim to have climbed two peaks marked as Lampak...

Friendship Expedition to Peak Lenin 7134m

An alpine style attempt on Peak Lenin 7134m Text and Photos: Athol Jake Preston and Anindya Mukherjee Summary: In August 2016, two friends, Athol Jake Preston (Australia) and Anindya Mukherjee (India) decided to rope up and climb the 7134m high Pik/Peak Lenin [1] by its north-west ridge (Razdelnaya route) in the Pamir Mountains of Central Asia in carry-camp and climb style, unsupported by porters or guides. They had to turn back from their summit camp (6148m) due to a heavy snow storm. Peak Lenin from Base Camp Achik Tash  “All big mountains are potentially dangerous; like fast cars they must be treated with respect. Yet if one uses common sense they can be traversed and enjoyed with impunity. The two popular ranges ...the Caucasus and the Pamir, are high and subject to violent storms. Also being marooned in a vast land mass they can be grippingly cold.”-Hamish Macinnes   “In 1974 the objectives were ambitious-nothing less than an alpine-style cli...

A Happy Ascent of Satopanth in 2016- A report

A Happy Ascent of Satopanth 7075m Summary: In September 2016, a small group of climbers from India and Germany climbed Satopanth (7075m) and an unnamed 6008m peak by the traditional routes in semi alpine style and without using any fixed rope on its famous north-east ridge-north face route.  Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee Satopanth from Sundar Bamak, photo: Anindya Mukherjee ~~~~~~~~ The happy climber, like the aged Ulysses, is one who has “drunk delight of battle with his peers”, and this delight is only attainable by assaulting cliffs which tax to their utmost limits of the powers of the mountaineers engaged. This struggle involves the same risk, whether early climbers attacked what we now call easy rock, or whether we moderns attack formidable rock, or whether the ideal climber of the future assaults cliffs which we now regard as hopelessly inaccessible. -A.F.Mummery [1] ~~~~~~~~ Snow coated the mountain range and one mountain in particular. All of...