Sundardhunga Khal: The Solution to a Long-Standing Problem Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee ‘Raja’ Introduction The Sundardhunga Khal is 5520m (18100ft) high. It is the lowest point of the ridge connecting Maiktoli (6803m, 22320ft) and Panwali Dwar (6663m, 21860ft) and the highest point between the valleys of South Rishi glacier to its North and the Burh glacier to its South. Starting from 1932, exploratory climbers have been trying to climb the Sundardhunga Khal from the south in order to get a direct access to the inner sanctuary of Nanda Devi. Once the south face of Sundardhunga Khal is climbed, one of last exploratory problems of the Indian Himalaya will be solved. History During May 1932, Hugh Ruttledge, Émile Rey (one of the greatest alpine guides of his generation) and six Sherpas from Darjeeling were the pioneers looking into the problem of climbing Sundardhunga Khal from the Burh glacier side, i.e. the Maiktoli valley. After taking a closer look at the face ...
An Alpine Season in Ladakh First Ascents of three 6000m peaks in the Khyam lungpa [1] Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee Khyam lungpa Background Sometimes, the most memorable adventures stem from the most unexpected turns. In August 2023, Christian Ranke and I, was aiming to traverse the twin summits of Kang Yatse IV, a feat that would build upon our previous success on Satopanth in 2016 [2] . Kang Yatse IV had already become familiar terrain for me—on 1st August 2021, I had been part of a team known as 2L1B (Two Ladakhi One Bengali), which made the first ‘documented’ ascent of the North summit of Kang Yatse IV (6130m). Along with Ladakhi climbers Sonam Yangjor and Stanzin Wangial Kaya, we climbed the mountain in alpine style, reaching the North Summit via the North Face-North Ridge route [3] . That ascent left me deeply connected to the region, and I was eager to return. However, this time, the mountains had different plans. After spending a week struggling up the northern slopes ...