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Sundardhunga Khal: The Solution to a Long-Standing Problem

Sundardhunga Khal: The Solution to a Long-Standing Problem Text and Photos: Anindya Mukherjee ‘Raja’  Introduction The Sundardhunga Khal is 5520m (18100ft) high. It is the lowest point of the ridge connecting Maiktoli (6803m, 22320ft) and Panwali Dwar (6663m, 21860ft) and the highest point between the valleys of South Rishi glacier to its North and the Burh glacier to its South. Starting from 1932, exploratory climbers have been trying to climb the Sundardhunga Khal from the south in order to get a direct access to the inner sanctuary of Nanda Devi. Once the south face of Sundardhunga Khal is climbed, one of last exploratory problems of the Indian Himalaya will be solved.   History During May 1932, Hugh Ruttledge, Émile Rey (one of the greatest alpine guides of his generation) and six Sherpas from Darjeeling were the pioneers looking into the problem of climbing Sundardhunga Khal from the Burh glacier side, i.e. the Maiktoli valley. After taking a closer look at the face Ruttledge wrot
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A Short Wintry Walk in Kashmir

New Year Trek 2023: Marchoi, Kashmir I am planning a short trek in Kashmir to welcome and embrace the New Year 2023. It is known as the Marchoi trek as the highest point of this trek is the Marchoi Mountain (3200m). However, the same peak is also referred to as the 'Shadimarg top.' This trail has gained popularity in recent years, particularly in the winter, because of its splendor and ease of access. I chose this trail not only to curate a ‘winter wonderland’ experience, but also to present the trekker the unparallel taste of standing atop a summit. The trail is neither long nor difficult, making it ideal for first-timers. It is only 18 kilometers long and we will be dividing the distance over three short hiking days, ensuring that your time in the snow is enjoyable rather than punishing. I have always preferred small groups on Himalayan treks in order to leave minimal impact on the environment. In this trek I am hoping to build a team of 6-8 members and not more. It is in thi
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The First Documented Ascent of Kang Yatse IV (North Summit, 6130m)

The First Documented Ascent of Kang Yatse IV (North Summit, 6130m)  Summary On 1st August, 2021, a team of three Indian alpinists made the first documented ascent of Kang Yatse IV (6130m). They approached the mountain from its West, via the Langthang Chu valley. Using a couple of  days for reconnaissance and adopting a carry, camp and climb style, the trio first climbed the NW face and then the North ridge to reach the North Summit 6130m of the identical twin summit of KY IV. Team: Sonam Yangjor, Stanzin Wangial and Anindya Mukherjee. Duration: 24th July to 4th August, 2021.  Location: Markha and Langthang Chu Valley, Ladakh Himalaya. Grade: AD as per IFAS  Figure 1: The view of all four summits of Kang Yatse family from Hangkar, Photo: Sonam Yangjor, ©2L1B Expedition, 2021  The Mystery of the Disappearing Twin   Although these days the mountain is generally referred to as ‘Kang Yatse or Yatze’ by the locals and tourists alike, while doing the homework I noticed that it used to be spel
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Baljuri 5922m, Kumaon Himalaya: An Alpine Style Attempt in Winter

During the 2nd and 3rd week of December 2020, a team of 4 climbers made an attempt to climb Mt Baljuri 5922m in Him-Alpine style by the Baljuri col-North ridge route. The expedition did not use the services of any HAP or local guide beyond the traditional base camp of Baljuri and adopted a fast and light ‘carry, camp and climb’ style. The team reached Dwali (2610m) on 12th December and used two alternate ferry days via Phurkia (3189m) to station themselves at the traditional Base Camp (3600m) site of Baljuri on 16th December. During the approach march, the team encountered fresh new snow from a kilometer below Dwali and half way up to the Zero Point (3750m) the team found the trail covered in 6 inches to 1 feet of snow.  On 17th December, 3 climbers (Aniket, Rivu and Anindya) started climbing the spur that leads one to the traditional Camp-1 site of Baljuri. The spur was a mixture of frozen grass, mud and boulders under a thick and deceptive blanket of soft new snow. The trio reached
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Mountaineering Expeditions in 2022

I am working on our expedition calendar for 2022. It is going to be an interesting calendar with a diverse choice of regions, seasons, grades and duration. I am pretty confident that we will have the full calendar ready by the middle of November. As an experiment, ( a very exciting one for me) I am going to offer Hiking and Climbing in Kenya and Tanzania in 2022 . I hiked Kilimanajro back in 2005, climbed in the Rwenzoris (Uganda) in 2015 and climbed Nelion, Mt Kenya in early 2020. It would be wonderful to go back to Africa and guide a team there. In the Indian Himalaya, our calendar will have a range of expeditions to choose from with a choice for every moutaineering enthusiast- from the beginner to the more experienced. The Indian Himalaya is open and travelling across the Himalayan states is back to normal . Whether you are interested in climbing some of the most iconic mountains of the Indian Himalaya or would rather engage in some exploratory mountaineering- I welcome you to the I
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Podcast: Mountaineering & Trekking in the Pandemic Era

Given the accumulated experience of Covid cases in outdoors from all over the world, it is possible to make rational risk assessments and provide mitigation guidance to make our sports safer from the COVID-19 point of view. Here is the link to the recent podcast where we discuss the subject in detail:    Mountaineering & Trekking in the Pandemic Era
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A Little Snowshower on 2L1B- A short film by Wangial Kaya

 Surrounded by Ladakh's towering peaks and an alien desolation of a landscape, a band of three had just joined forces. With an unknown valley ahead and an unscaled mountain in sight, this curious company of two ladakhis and one bengali (2L1B) -- a musician, an aspiring mountain filmmaker and a seasoned climber-- were setting a plan afoot. The goal was to push a blitz attempt on an unnamed 6000m summit, true to the essence of an alpine style climb. Treading lightly on the terrain, with the bare minimum of necessities, expenses and impact on the surroundings, the project had had to be an exercise in precise and economic execution of the alpine craft. The team went strong with the odds in their favour upto the final camp, the top within the reach of but a few more hours' worth of toil. It was just then that the skies were besieged by a fierce, battering snow storm. The onslaught of wind and snow seemed to get harsher by the hour, as frustration from the jeopardized ascent turned t
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