 |
| view of Kangchenjunga south summit and Talung peaks from Tongshyong glacier. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee |
Text & Photographs: Anindya Mukherjee
Introduction
The
history of exploration around Kangchenjunga[1],
especially around its south, south east and east flanks; has always fascinated
me. The classic journeys and adventures of pioneers[2]
like W.W. Graham, John Claude White, Douglas Freshfield, Dr. A.M. Kellas, Harold
Raeburn, N.A.Tombazi, Lord John Hunt and Paul Bauer ignited my imagination. The
height of inspiration of course came from reading my hero Mr. H.W. Tilman’s
account in the Himalayan Journal (vol. IX) on his attempt on Zemu Gap from
south in 1936.
The
primary challenge of climbing Zemu Gap from south has always been its remote
& complicated approach. Many failed just to reach the foot of this col. To
add to that its apparently impregnable defenses took Zemu Gap to a next level
of exploratory climbing. In 1925, Greek photographer N.A.Tombazi is said to
have made its first ascent from south; but he did not take any photographs! To
me and my long time expedition partner Thendup Sherpa; all the above factors
seemed highly intriguing and certainly worth investigating.
From the south summit of Kangchenjunga
(8476m) a high ridge extends east separating the Zemu glacier valley on the
north from Tongshyong and Talung glaciers to the south. On this ridge, between Zemu
Peak (7730m), Unnamed Peak (7038m) and Simvu Twins (6812m & 6811m) there is
a sudden drop in altitude to form a col. At 5861m this col is more popularly
known as the Zemu Gap[3].
To its north is Zemu glacier and to its south Tongshyong glacier. Its
coordinates are 27°40'9"N 88°12'53‟E. From Zemu Gap a small, steep glacier
flows down to Tongshyong as a tributary glacier. To climb Zemu Gap from
Tongshyong, one would have to negotiate 2 icefalls on this tributary glacier
first and then find a route on the head wall. But before the climbing problem
comes the approach issue. Approaching Zemu Gap from north is straightforward.
From south, one has to cross Guicha la from the Prek Chu valley, across Talung
glacier, climb onto Tongshyong glacier by Timan’s ‘snow col’ and then arrive at
the foot of the tributary glacier. Another
way of reaching Tongshyong could be to reach its snout (either from Guicha
La-Talung route or through the Rukel-Rongyoung gorge route) and then traverse
towards its head to reach the base of the tributary glacier from Zemu Gap. In
1975, an Indian team (A.J.S Grewal) found the first option exhausting. They did
reach Tongshyong and the base of Zemu Gap’s glacier though. In 2008 and 2010
respectively, a British team and another Indian team failed even to reach
Tongshyong by the first option. I somehow preferred the second alternative.
Since I had survived the ‘trackless vale of tears’ (Tilman, When Men and
Mountains Meet), the Rukel-Rongyoung gorge route in March 2011; I had planned
for a direct approach to Tongshyong from Mangan via the gorge route.
 |
| our approach routes marked as red, green and blue indicating different attempts in March, November and December 2011 |
Preparation
“Though
Sikkim is reasonably accessible, only some half-dozen of its countless lofty
peaks have been conquered, and many of its fascinating valleys and uplands have
scarcely been trodden by Europeans. There is therefore plenty of scope for
explorers and naturalists as well as for climbers. … Nevertheless he is a bold
man who, reading of these determined assaults, sometimes successful, sometimes
splendid failures, will pronounce the summit of any peak in the Sikkim Himalaya
to be definitely inaccessible.”EXPLORATION
AND CLIMBING IN THE SIKKIM HIMALAYA LIEUT.-COL. H. W. TOBIN | 1930, Himalayan Journal vol.II
Albeit,
more than 80 years have passed since H.W. Tobin wrote the above lines; some
part of Sikkim Himalaya has managed to retain its original flavor! While the
factor of inaccessibility has reasonably abated over the past decades; a whole
new hurdle has entered the arena. Bureaucracy! The Talung Basin[4]
(which falls partly within the
Kangchenjunga National Park and partly in the north Sikkim Lepcha sanctuary
called ‘Dzongu’) area is a classic example. Even though this valley system has
no proximity or direct access to the Indo-Tibetan borders; it remains veiled
behind restrictions and a mountain of paper works.
In
2008, a British team, got permission to cross Zemu Gap from south and traverse
the Zemu glacier valley down to Lachen. This was particularly encouraging news
for me and my long time climbing partner Thendup Sherpa. With my friend
O.T.Lepcha’s (Tholung Ecotourism Cooperative Society, T.E.C.S) involvement and
active support we also succeeded in procuring the necessary permits. This
resulted in a series of expeditions that I would undertake in 2011[5].
To
start the exploration process, we repeated Claude White’s route of July 1890,
in reverse, forcing up the Rongyoung-Rukel Chu gorges to connect Mangan, north
Sikkim with Yoksum, West Sikkim in March 2011. This success reinforced our
confidence and we were ready to have an attempt on Zemu Gap from south, a long
standing problem in mountaineering history around Kangchenjunga. In November,
2011, we crossed Guicha La, went down Talung glacier to set up a high camp on
Tongshyong. But a 5 day long snow storm stopped us from approaching Zemu Gap.
We went down the Rukel-Rongyong gorges to Mangan. Finally in December 2011, we
were successful in climbing Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier, i.e. south.
 |
| our line of ascent on the second icefall guarding zemu gap from south, pic: Anindya Mukherjee |
Zemu Gap and the Talung Basin: Exploration, Attempts and
Ascents
Before
going into the description of our expedition let us browse through some mountaineering
and exploration history of the Talung basin and Zemu Gap.
1. In 1890, John Claude White, made one of
his first expeditions that involved crossing the Guicha la. He crossed Guicha
la, went down to Talung glacier (which he referred to as the ‘Kangchen’
glacier- source: “Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty-One years on the North East
Frontier 1887-1908- J. Claude White, p-57) and then followed the
‘Talung’/’Ronggyaong’ Chu (‘Rungnu’- as per White) eastwards to Sakyong and
finally to Ringen (the present day location of North Sikkim Government offices
above Mangan). In his book “Sikhim and Bhutan- Twenty One Years on the North
–East Frontier 1887-1908”, he writes in page 53- “In 1890 I made one of my first expeditions to the snows, crossing the
Giucha-la pass and from there making my way to Ringen, following a route the
latter part of which had certainly never been traversed by a European, and I
doubt by anyone, except possibly a very occasional Lepcha.”
Mr. H.W.Tilman later called this gorge
route “the trackless vale of tears” in his book ‘When Men and Mountains Meet’.
(p.321). Lepchas of the Dzongu valley call Talung Chu as “Ronggyaong” or simply
“Rongyoung” chu. In this report we have referred to it as “Rongyoung”.
2. In 1899, Mr. Douglas Freshfield,
accompanied by Professor Garwood intended to determine practicability of an
ascent to Zemu Gap by its northern approaches (Zemu glacier). Bad weather
prevented them from making much progress beyond ‘Green Lake’. Rinzin Namgyal
and Sella brothers were also part of his ‘high level tour’. (‘Round
Kanchenjunga’- Douglas Freshfield)
3. Dr. A.Kellas with three
coolies camped at 18,200 ft, just below Zemu Gap and then went to the col on
the morning of 12 May 1910. ‘The
slope fell away steeply in front, and a few yards down there was a crevasse
that stretched right across the gully.’ ‘The Mountains of Northern India and
Sikkim’, Alpine Journal 26 (1912) Pp. 113-142. - A.M. Kellas. This is probably the first documented
ascent of Zemu Gap from North; i.e. Zemu glacier.
4.
1920-First attempt on Zemu
Gap from south; i.e. Tongshyong glacier. H.W. Tobin
and Harold Raeburn, explored Talung and Tongshyong glaciers and an attempt was
made to ascend Zemu Gap from south. He describes the approach to the Zemu Gap
from the Tongshyong glacier as ‘the narrow entrance and the mountain sides
raked with such a continuous hail of rocks and debris that an approach by this
route would have been little short of suicidal’…On their way out of Talung
Basin they took Claude White’ s route of 1890 following the gorges of Rukel and
Rongyoung rivers. (Himalayan Journal II-1930-Pp 1-12, ‘Exploration and Climbing
in the Sikkim Himalaya’).
5. N.A. Tombazi made a tour of
the locality in 1925 (Alpine Journal
38 p. 150, Geographical Journal 67). He
claimed to have made the first ascent to the Zemu Gap from the south. He however provided no photographic
evidence against his claimed ascent.
6. In 1926, Captain Boustead declared he reached the Zemu Gap from the
south. (Geographical Journal 69 Pp. 344-350). But his description raised
suspicions in Mr. H.W.Tilman’s mind and in 1936 during his attempt from south;
HWT suggested Captain Boustead may have mistaken a col located at the head of
Tongshyong glacier as Zemu Gap. In Mr.Tilman’s words,…‘The
Zemu Gap differed so widely from the account I had read that I half believed a
mistake had been made and that the genuine gap lay concealed behind some corner
near the head of the Tongshyong. There was, however, no other break in the
mighty south-east ridge of Kangchenjunga, and the low, easy col at the head of
the glacier obviously led over into the wide bay at the head of the Talung. Is
it possible that, in the thick weather prevailing when Captain Boustead was
here, this had been mistaken for the
Zemu Gap?’ (Ref. HJ IX, The Zemu Gap, H.W.Tilman)
7.
Karl von Kraus, Joachim Leupold of the German Expedition to climb
Kanchenjunga (Led by Paul Bauer) climbed Zemu Gap in July-August 1929 from north, Zemu Glacier. Second ascent from North.
8.
Mr.H.W. Tilman, made his first attempt on
Zemu Gap, from the south in 1936 accompanied
by Pasang Kikuli. Mr.Tilman reached Tongshyong glacier from Talung by crossing
a ‘snow col’
(Located between Talung and
Tongshyong glaciers on the ridge running west to east seperating the two
glaciers in the process). In Mr.Tilman’s words, “Although we were loath to give
in, defeat seemed imminent, for beyond these obstacles lay the final ice-wall
which from below appeared impregnable.” He was thwarted “where we had a good
view of the final wall .It was fully as high as we had feared, all iced, and appeared
to overhang in places.” On his way out
he followed Claude White (1890) and Harold Raeburn (1920)’s direction down the
Ruykel-Rongyong Chu gorges to Sanklan Sampo below Mangan. (When Men and
Mountains Meet p. 311)
9. In 1937, During a winter expedition lasting nearly two months, John Hunt and Pasang Kikuli reached the
Zemu Gap from the north on 18 November[6].
Evidence showed that the German party had already been there earlier (Led by Paul Bauer, and three other climbers, Adolf Gottner, Dr.
Giinter Hepp, and Dr. Karl Wien were climbing Siniolchu and Simvu North peaks
in September -October 1937). Therefore, Paul Bauer’s
party ‘may’ have done the 3rd ascent of Zemu Gap from North and Lord
Hunt’s team 4th. John Hunt, ‘A
winter visit to the Zemu Glacier’, Himalayan Journal X (1938) and HJ IX-
‘Ascent of Siniolchu and Simvu North Peak I’ by Dr. Karl Wien.
10.
Mr.H.W.Tilman’s second attempt
to cross Zemu Gap came from the north in July 1938.
It was successful on 9 July, though the descent down the steep southern side
was fraught with difficulties. On his way out he avoided using the direct route
down to Talung glacier by the ‘snow col’ and followed Tongshyong glacier
downhill to climb up Talung glacier and crossed the higher Guicha La into Prek
Chu valley. The fifth ascent from north
and the only successful crossing of Zemu Gap.
11.
In 1975, J.K.Bajaj,
Nima Tashi and Sherpa Passang after their failed attempt on Talung peak;
investigated the Zemu Gap from the Tongshyong glacier. They were prevented from
crossing the Gap ‘by two big open crevasses approx. 40 ft in width’ just 200 ft
short of the col. ‘…it is clear that the Gap can be reached if one goes
prepared to bridge the two crevasses.’ (‘Talung 1975′, Himalayan Journal 34 (1974-75) Pp. 39-47, A. J. S. Grewal.
12.
In 2008, an attempt was
made by a British team to link together two treks – the ‘Guicha la’ trek and
the ‘Green Lake’ trek, across Zemu Gap. They crossed Guicha La from the Prek
Chu valley and reached Talung Glacier. Their plan was to reach Tongshyong
glacier through the snow col and climb Zemu Gap from south. Their journey ended
on the steep (mixed terrain with grass, juniper and scree) slope on the south
of the snow col 200m below the level of Tongshyong glacier. The expedition
members were Adrian O’Connor from Leicester, and Colin Knowles and Jerzy
Wieczorek from Bristol, all of whom are members of the Red Rope Club.
13.
In 2010, a group from
Kolkata (Mr. Subhamoy Ghosh), India intended to follow the 2008 British
expedition route. They crossed Guicha La from Prek Chu valley and reached up to
the grass, juniper, scree slope that leads to Tongshyong glacier via
Mr.Tilman’s ‘snow col’.
14.
In March 2011, Thendup
Sherpa and Anindya Mukherjee did Claude White’s 1890 route in reverse. It took
them 12 days to reach Yoksum in West Sikkim from Mangan in North Sikkim. It was the first ever upstream journey
documented up the deep gorges of Rukel-Rongyoung Rivers.
15.
In November 2011,
Anindya Mukherjee, Arjun Saha, Arindam sarkar, Thendup Sherpa crossed Guicha La
and reached the confluence of Talung Chu and Tongshyong chu. Making a base near
the confluence they entered Tongshyong glacier traversing from its snout. Their
intention to proceed further towards the head of Tongshyong glacier and
thereafter to Zemu Gap was foiled by 5 days of nonstop snow storm. They esacped
the valley by following Claude White’s route to Sanklan sampo and Mangan in 5
days.
16.
In December 2011,
Thendup Sherpa, Anindya Mukherjee and Pemba Sherpa started from Mangan
traversing upstream Rongyoung and Rukel river gorges. They reached the
confluence of Tongshyong Chu and Talung Chu in 5 days. Making 3 more camps
beyond that point in Tongshyong glacier they climbed Zemu Gap on 15th
December, 2011. This is the first ‘documented’ ascent from South. They
retraced their own route back to Mangan in just 3 days.
Sitemap
Pic 1: comparative photos of the Zemu
Gap top. On the left is an image from John Hunt’s expedition on 18th November,
1937. On the right is an image from our expedition to Zemu Gap on 15th
December, 2011.
Our Journey through the
Rongyoung-Rukel gorges and ascent of Zemu Gap from south (3-19 December 2011)
Brief Outline
Itinerary[7]
3rd December, 2011: Drive to Mangan from Bagdogra
4th December, 2011: Drive to 6th Mile
village in lower Dzongu valley in the Talung Basin
5th December, 2011: Trek to Sakyong village
(1700m) - 5 hours, stay at village
6th December, 2011: Trek to Waterfall cave
(2062m) - 6 hours, camp on the left bank of Rongyoung River
7th December, 2011: Trek to Thar cave (2600m) - 7
hours, left bank of Rongyoung River
8th December, 2011: Trek to Bear Camp (3061m) - 4
hours, left bank of Rukel River
9th December, 2011: Trek to Tongshyong glacier
Base Camp (3740m)- 5 hours, near the junction of streams coming from
Talung and Tongshyong glaciers
10th December, 2011: Bad weather. A day lost.
Original plan was to reccee for a camp I site inside Tongshyong glacier and
ferry loads.
11th December, 2011: We move to Camp I (4701m) -
4 hours, camp on left lateral moraine of Tongshyong glacier
12th December, 2011: We move to Camp II (4968m) –
3 hours, due to poor visibility and worsening weather conditions we had to stop
early. Still on the left lateral moraines
13th December, 2011: Clear sky finally. We reccee
and ferry loads to Camp III site. We find a suitable camp site in the small
tributary glacier originating from Zemu Gap.
14th December, 2011: we move up to Camp III
(5250m), Camp III is located on a moraine shelf
above the first icefall of Zemu Gap’s glacier. There are 2 icefalls and
1 final head wall forming the defenses of Zemu Gap. Camp III is already above
the first icefall.
15th December, 2011: We climb to the top of Zemu
Gap (5861m) and come back to Camp III. 12 hour day. The vertical height gain of
the second icefall is around 250m and the final head wall is 200m.
16th December, 2011: down to BC
17-19th December, 2011: we take 3 days to reach 6th
Mile village retracing our steps.
 |
| our line of ascent on the final head wall of zemu gap. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee |
Description: Zemu Gap from south
Approach through ‘the trackless vale
of tears’
As per the
itinerary above, our team united in the North Sikkim district head quarters of
Mangan on 3rd December, 2011. Following morning, we did some
shopping for grocery, vegetables and other essential commodities for our
expedition. Later in the day we took a jeep to the village of 6th
Mile. We stayed in the guest house of Tholung Ecotourism Cooperative Society
that night. Next morning (5th) we trekked past the village of
Lingzya and crossed the Rongyoung River. The September earthquake has devastated
the lower Dzongu valley. The village of Be in the Ringi Chu catchment has been
nearly erased with many dead. Fortunately for us the bridge on the river
Rongyoung survived though twisted. We spent that night in a village hut in
Sakyong.
Sakyong is
the last human habitation on the western edges of Dzongu. Beyond this we will
be entering Kangchenjunga National Park jurisdiction. On 6th
December, 2011, morning we followed the true right bank of Rongyoung for first
3 hours. After Singnok we crossed the river over a make shift log bridge.
Singnok is a place where Sakyong folks have been cultivating Large Cardamom for
generations. We find its mention in Claude White’s descriptions.
After
crossing the Rongyong River beyond Singnok, trail ends and begins Tilman‘s
‘trackless vale of tears’! We bivouacked below an overhang rock near a
beautiful waterfall on 6th. It took us around 6 hours from Sakyong
village to reach this spot. We had camped here before in November 2011, while
coming down the gorge after our first failed attempt on Zemu Gap from Tongshyong
glacier. Next day we kept on the true left of the river and after 7 hours found
a cave suitable to spend the night. We could see signs of Himalayan Tahrs. They
certainly have been using this cave as their shelter. We felt like trespassers.
8th
December, 2011, we left the Rongyoung and followed Rukel River by its true
left. We camped by the river next to a spectacular gorge formation. At dusk we
were visited by a Himalayan Black Bear. We had to make a fire to drive him
away. On 9th December, 2011, we reached the junction of streams
coming from Tongshyong and Talung glaciers. We established our base camp for
Zemu Gap there at an altitude of 3740m. Snow fall started from the afternoon of
9th and did not stop for next 30 hours. As a result we lost one day
(10th December). We had plans to reccee and ferry some loads that
day into Tongshyong glacier.
11th
December, 2011, saw us moving up the Tongshyong stream and climbing scree to
reach the left lateral moraine of Tongshyong glacier. In spite of poor
visibility we made good progress and made Camp I at an altitude of 4701m. Poor
visibility and intermittent snow fall patterns continued overnight and to the
next day. It was difficult to take bearings on our maps and orient ourselves.
Due to poor visibility, on 12th December we made an early camp. This
was camp II (4968m).
13th
December, 2011, sky finally cleared and we realized that we were still far away
from the small tributary glacier of Zemu Gap. This small tributary glacier
meets Tongshyong near its head from its north. We did a reccee and load ferry
this day and in the process had a good view of our objective.
Our
observations revealed that there are 2 icefalls and 1 final head wall guarding
Zemu Gap from any assault from Tongshyong. While the first icefall could be
avoided by taking a scree gully on its true right; the second icefall has to be
negotiated head on. Not much could be seen of the final head wall. With mixed
feelings of hope and despair we came back to Camp II.
On 14th
December, 2011, we moved up to the camp III site chosen yesterday. Camp III was
established above the first icefall, at an altitude of 5250m. From here we had
good views of the second icefall. Thendup did a further reccee that afternoon
and came back to camp with optimism. The weather seemed to be stable finally
and we had a great view all around. We felt special to be in a place where very
few have reached.
15th
December, 2011, Thendup Sherpa, Anindya Mukherjee and Pemba Sherpa left camp
III at 5.15 a.m. It took them total 6 hours to negotiate and climb the second
icefall (250m) and 200m of final head wall. The head was climbed by a rock
route avoiding the overhanging blue ice that dominates the centre of the Gap.
Standing on Zemu Gap we fell very satisfied. We could see the upper Zemu glacier
to our north, the junction of Twins Glacier and Zemu Glacier, Sugarloaf (6459m)
and surrounding mountains. To our east
and ENE we could see the Simvu massif and its northern aspects. The summit of
6812m (one of the Simvu twins) and peak 6587m were also distinct. To our west a
steep slope with threatening seracs climbed towards peak 7038m. To our SSE we
saw peak 6350m (located at the head of South Simvu glacier) and to our south
Pandim (6691m), Tilman’s ‘snow col’ separating Talung and Tongshyong glaciers,
Guicha la (4940m), and peak 5962m were noted. We took lots of photographs and
started to retrace our steps down soon. After many short pitches of down
climbing and 5 abseils on rock and ice we were at the bottom of the second
icefall and in relative safe zone. Zemu Gap is climbed from south and this time
we have come back with photographs.
The next
day, 16th December, 2011, we trekked down to our base. It took us
another 3 days to retrace our steps through the gorge and reach 6th
Mile village and Mangan.
Team: Thendup Sherpa, Anindya
Mukherjee, Pemba Sherpa, Phurtemba Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa
 |
| Anindya and Thendup on top of Zemu Gap after their first ascent from south, i.e.tongshyong glacier, Photo Pemba Sherpa |
Acknowledgements:
·
This
expedition would not have been possible without the support of my friend Kevin
Hynes. I am indebted.
·
T.E.C.S.
·
George
Rodway, PhD
·
Priyadarshi
Gupta, Himalayan Club, Kolkata section
·
British
Zemu Gap Expedition 2008, Colin Knowles
·
Souvenir,
50th Anniversary of First ascent of Kangchenjunga, Himalayan Club,
Kolkata section
·
Himalayan
Mountaineering Journal, vol. IX
·
Sikhim
and Bhutan- J. Claude White
·
H.W.Tilman-
‘When Men and Mountains Meet’
Pic 2: red dotted line shows our March’11 route. Blue dotted line
shows November’11 route. Nov’11 route is similar to March route with variation
between Chemathang and Talung glacier through Guicha la. Green dotted line
shows Decemeber’11 route to Zemu Gap from Tongshyong glacier.
For
further information on this expedition please contact:
Anindya
Mukherjee
Charu
Niketan
20
A.L.Nath Lane
Po:
Belurmath, Dist: Howrah
PIN:
711202, West Bengal, India
[1] The spelling of ‘kangchenjunga’ has long been
debated. For wider reference to the etymology consult Himalayan Journal vol.
IV, p. 198-214
[2] A
summary of mountaineering and exploration history of the area is in page 3 of
this report
[3]
Also referred to as ‘Zemu la’ and ‘Cloud Gap’ in some journals
[4]
Mostly referred to as Rukel - Rongyoung Chu gorges in this report
[5]
Refer to Pic 2: for route outlines taken by us respectively in March, November
and December 2011 p 10 of this document
[6]
Please refer to Pic. 1 in page 6
[7]
The camp names mentioned in the itinerary above are names given by us. There is
no trail in this gorge route. We camped or bivouacked in suitable caves or
sites depending on the length of ground we covered each day. ‘Thar’ cave was
literally a cave used by Himalayan Tahrs and on 8th December, a
Himalayan Black Bear visited our camp, hence the name ‘Bear Camp’.