So they said, and I believed it--broke my land and sowed my crop--
Built my barns and strung my fences in the little border station
Tucked away below the foothills where the trails run out and stop:
Till a voice, as bad as Conscience, rang interminable changes
On one everlasting Whisper day and night repeated--so:
"Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the Ranges--
"Something lost behind the Ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!"...
The Explorer- Rudyard Kipling
On one everlasting Whisper day...
I have always tried to inspire myself ( not succeeded always though). Sometimes when all the Bob Dylan, David Gray, Kipling, treks and climbs on well known path seem a little dull; its time for me to " look behind the ranges.."
Well looks like its going to be another of those crazy projects that I have had in the past!
My job takes to me to the spectacular Onglathang Valley many times a year. A valley guarded by the mighty mountains. Kangchendzonga, Kabru, Talung, Pandim, Tinchinkhang, Jopuno...Giants and Lepcha demigods! Sometimes climbing, sometimes purely for guiding a trekkking group to the high mountain pass of Goecha la. The funny yet frustrating thing about this Goecha la trek is that one only goes up to the pass following the Yoksum- Tsokha- Dzongri- Thangsing- Lamoni- Sungmoteng Lake trail and come back down the same valley. No one crosses the pass and descend to the other side, the Talung Glacier and follow the Talung river down to reach the green valley of Dzongu, the Lepcha territory. No one? Well, not in last 119 years!
In July 1890, J. Claude White ( the first British political officer to Sikkim 1887 to 1908) did the first and quite possibly the last recorded crossing of Goecha La. Starting from Onglathang side he crossed the pass, traversed the Talung glacier, and followed the river system down to the Lepcha sanctuary known as Dzongu in North Sikkim. I am quoting the following lines from his book " Sikhim and Bhutan, Twenty-One years on the North East Frontier, 1887-1908", page 53:
"...In 1890 I made one of my first expeditions to the snows, crossing the Giucha-La Pass and from there making my way to Ringen, following a route the latter part of which had certainly never been traversed by a European, and I doubt by any one, except possibly a very occasional Lepcha...."
In 2006 and 2007, I had repeatedly visited Upper Dzongu area in order to explore the myth of the wild man of Sikkim; the Bon Manchi! My trips took me to the South East flanks of Siniolchu, the snout of Zumthul Phuk glacier and also visited Kishongla. I found there a lot more than one can find in Google Earth, tourist brochures, websites or any modern map. I found a pass named after the elusive 'Yeti'. The pass is called 'Mige La'( Migou, or Migu as they call the Yeti in Tibetan dialects). But thats another story.
Out of my sheer interest and respect for the Lepcha traditions and culture I visited the Tholung Monestary and the remote Dzongu villages a few times. Sakyong, Pentong, Lingzya are the villages where Claude White reached after his epic crossing. I am familiar with the villages as I have spent many nights there already, talking to the locals, trying to gather more information on the terrain that lies beyond their last cultivated fields and yak shelters. But it seems no one has gone beyond 1 full day's hike after the last village of Sakyong. No one,not even the ever enterprising himalayan shepherds.
Now that is what increases my interest and a sense of challenge in this project. The element of unknown. Just the right amount of mystery to make my adventure worth. If I am succesful, I will dedicate this to the spirit of exploration of J.Claude White, who deserves to be remembered as one of the pioneer explorers of Sikkim and Bhutan along with Dr. Kellas, Graham, Freshfield.
This journey will also enable me to take photographs of some hitherto unseen glaciers, like the South Simvu glacier and its peaks, their accessibility and feasibilty.
In 1890 what White achieved was great even though he was accompanied by a group of porters, and sherpas. In his account he did not specify how many men he had on his expedition. But from his description and the practices of that time, I assume that he had at least 10. In order to honour that courage I have decided to attempt his feat in a 2 men team. Being a fan of Shipton- Tilman style of exploration myself, its going to be just me and my climbing partner Thendup.
Thats it for now. If anyone has any information on this area and history please share with me.Cheers to the spirit of exploration and freedom of the hills!!!
We hope to start this adventure on May 12, 2009 from Darjeeling.
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Adventure Mania
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