The Berner Oberland Trio: Eiger- Monch-Jungfrau
As the rock step became unstable and never ending; we were still struggling to get to the South East ridge of Jungfrau. Last night when we last looked at the map, it all looked so obvious. For a team of experienced rock climbers and high altitude mountaineers, this 4000er seemed more like a tourist mountain. It took us a while to realize yet again that a mountain is a mountain; no matter how many times it has been climbed in the past; or how many guide books has been written on its routes. We were surprised at the grade of difficulties we were facing that morning. The guide books described the SE ridge of Jungfrau as PD and we were almost certain that it was going well beyond that scale. Well, the guide book was not wrong; it was us on the wrong side of the ridge. I felt tired and sleepy as I climbed and tried to be careful and safe on the rocks. The snow ridge was within striking distance, but we knew it will not bring any comfort to our ascent. We have already lost 2 vital hours on this perilous traverse and with the rising sun; snow was getting softer each minute. A scary scramble followed by a snow plod. Does not make a perfect alpine ascent; does it? But sometimes thats all you get. Never under estimate a mountain; I told myself. I learn to be humble every step, onwards and upwards.
The Jetlagged climber
I have never felt so much jet lagged ever before as this time. I dont know why it happened; but the flight to Munich from Delhi via Dubai ( and 19 hours in transit- 9 in Dubai, 10 in Delhi) seemed to have taken its toll. Inspite of the special treatment from the Airlines ( courtesy His Lordship Biswanath Somadder) at the Delhi airport; my body was reacting strange this time. It felt like that I needed to acclimatize to the alpine air.
I started from Kolkata on the morning of July 9; reached Delhi at around 2.30 in the afternoon. I had to wait in the International terminal for 10 hours for my flight to Dubai and then another 9 hours in the transit area in Dubai. When I finally made Munich it was July 10, 13.30 hrs. Martin came to meet me at the airport and we took the S-Bahn to the Munich HBF ( main station) , had a coffee and parted. Martin was heading to Berlin to meet his parents and me to Meiringen. My train to Meiringen via zurich was not untill 4.30 pm and I was glad to see Alan and Sandra waiting for me there. It took 5 hours from Munich and thanks to the smooth driving by Sandra I reached the MCI campsite at Innertkirchen close to midnight.
Didnt get any sleep for the past 48 hours and it was the same that night.
6 days...4 summits...not bad eh
July 11: Climbed Schwarzhorn after a long walk from Grosse Schiedig. There was a via ferrata on one of its ridge. This was my first ever via ferrata and I must say I enjoyed it thoroughly. The wearther was not pleasant and I was feeling tired and sleepy all the time. I never got time to get rid of the jet lag. Although I thought walking and climbing could be a great way to smash the jet lag down.
I was wrong. I got my first ever alpine summit today though.
July 12: The weather forecast for the rest of the wek was not encouraging at all. The Mittelegi hut on Eiger was closed for uncertain time. This was notgood news for the few dreamers (like me) who were really keen to climb the famous and classic ridge of the Eiger this time. But when you are in the Bernese Alps; you are not short of famous( almost iconic) mountains to climb. So the Team Eiger decided to move up to the Monchjoch hut. George, sandra, PJ, Michael, and Anthony climbed Monch that afternoon; and I decided to sleep, a much deserved one perhaps. They climbed Monch that afternoon while I slept.
July 13: Started from the Monchjoch hut at 4 am, traversed the glacier and started gaining the rocky ridge that will finally lead us to the SE ridge of Jungfrau via Rottasattel. Lost 2 vital hours on the loose and treacherous rock step only to realize that we were on the wrong face of the ridge. We manage to climb it without any trouble (other than losing precious time) and continued to Rottasattel. The bergschrund ( a massive crevasse guarding the bottom of Rottasattel) did not pose too much problem and we were soon on the saddel. TJust as soon things started to look a bit easier for us, the weather decided to turn hostile and we had to do the snow and ice climbs to the summit in near zero visibility. The summit shot of Jungfrau (the one with the prayer flags) will show the kind of visibilty we had then. The paryer flags I bought in Manali after coming down from Manirang is now on top of Jungfrau. After a total of 11 hours and patient pitch by pitch climb down of the face, we were back in the safety zone.
George and the rest of team decided to take the evening train down to Grindelwald and I decided to stay another night at the Monchjoch hut. The plan was to climb Monch next morning and the I was keen to do it solo. So after an hour of slow snow plod I was back at the hut. Heidi, the lady in charge of the reservations of the hut was surprised to see me back and got even serious when she she heard my plan to solo Monch next morning. To her I was not only a single Indian climber; but the weather forecast for the next day was not particularly encouraging. But when I said to her that I am a professional mountaineer and I guide in the Indian Himalaya; she was a bit assured I guess.
It felt like home in the hut that night, and Heidi remembered my lactose intolerance problem and got a nice specially cooked meal for dinner. Finally could sleep well that night.
July 14: Started from the Hut at 6.45 am and reached the top of Monch at 8.25 am. Very windy morning and climbing the knife edge ridge near the summit got interesting with each step. I must say the concentration and commitment brought me to another spiritual level altogether. I was very glad whehn I was at the top. Took a lot of photos and caught a glimpse of Eiger and its South ridge. Next time Eiger...I will come back. Have to. Climbed down to the hut without any problem, met Heidi to reassure her of my safe return. She was glad to see me back. After a cup of coffee I headed down to Grindelwald valley. What a day.
July 15: Back at the campsite at Innertkirchen, it felt like coming home. Meeting Alan and Margaret felt like family. I felt blessed and lucky to have such friends and to be able to live such a life. walked down the Aare river gorge to Meiringen and visited the Sherlock Holmes museum. Coffee, good food and some time with friends. Thats what you call life.
July 16: After a rest day I was keen to climb again; at least one more summit. Alan suggested the walk up to the tierberg glacier. That will give me access to peaks like Susten horn and others. I was keen to do something solo. But got a curious opportunity to guide some one in Alps. Could not resist the chance and ego satisfaction invloved I guess. So approached Hans ( a nice guy from Norway- with no glacial or altitude experience) if he would join me to climb. He agreed readily and we were soon at the Tierberg hut. Alan was there again for us driving us close the road head.
It took us 1.30 hours to climb to the hut, took a short break to eat my apple struddle ( bought from the local bakery of Innertkirchen) and give instructions to Hans regarding glacial walk techniques etc. After another 2 hours we were on the summit of Mittl Tierberg. I traversed to loose rocky riodge towards the Hinter Tierberg only to be warned by the unstable character of the rocks. So we had to be happy with just one summit this morning.
And there ends the summit fever....
The meteo or the weather forecast for the alps continues to be bad to worse...and I have now travelled down to zurich (actually I am camped comfortably and Anne and Sepp,s house at Stafa; one hour from zurich, having redwine and good food. Life is good at the moment while its raining hard outside. saw in the tele that it has been snowing down to 1000msl and literally all climbing to 3500-4000m summits is at halt. My days at the alps are coming to an end. Still hoping to make a 5th summit if the weather breaks and gives an window of opportunity. But should not be greedy. After all mountains have not taught me that. It is humility and patience I have learnt. But still.....
My gratitude goes to Alan Tees, President of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland ( now called Mountaineering Ireland ) for inviting me to this alpine meet. It has enriched me with new ideas and strengthened me with the experience gained on the snow of Bernese Oberland. My love and respect for Margaret, who was always there for me, like my mother and pampering me.
Thanks and regards to my friend Martin, Hilde, Sepp and Anne for food and shelter....after all thats all I have ..thats all I treasure...friendship...
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