Introduction to Garhwal, Kumaun and Sikkim Himalaya

A brief introduction to the mountains of Uttarakhand (Garhwal and Kumaon) and Sikkim. Discussion on climbing potential of peaks with different grades. Also includes a list of open peak by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Adventure Mania (www.adventuremania.com) organizes and leads expeditions all over the Indian Himalaya.

The Himalaya is no longer the preserve of the rich and leisurely; they have become accessible to the ordinary person and within a time span that can be fitted into normal vacation period. Indian Himalaya range stands on its own even though it does not contain high peaks of 8000 meters. Most of the high peaks, including Everest, have now been climbed over a 100 times. Once the interest in them has waned, ranges such as those in India, will be the mountaineer’s playground.

The Himalayan chain is spread across the Asian continent, going South East to North West. Generally, the Himalaya, Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush are talked about as part of one chain. When we are talking of the ‘Indian Himalaya’ we are talking of the part of the Himalayan Mountains, which falls within Indian Territory. Starting from the East, the Indian Himalaya, originate from a knot between Myanmar-China and India, from where the Brahmaputra river enters Arunachal Pradesh. The chain continues till the border of Bhutan. Beyond that we have Sikkim. Sikkim is part of India since 1974. Sikkim has many peaks including the world’s third highest, the mighty Kangchendzonga. The Himalayan ranges due west of this are in the Nepalese area till we reach the borders of Kumaon and Garhwal (present day Uttarakhand). From here, without a break, the Indian Himalaya range continues over Kinnaur, Spiti, Ladakh and lastly East Karakoram. The areas further west are controlled by Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Truly there are no ‘Everests’ to be climbed in the Indian Himalaya, for the only 8000 m peak in India is Kangchendzonga. But, if you are interested in smaller peaks, literally hundreds over 6000 meters and many over 7000 meters are here and waiting in the Indian Himalaya. Many valleys are still unexplored and numerous peaks awaiting their first ascents. Unbelievable, but true! Indian Himalaya, rich with its less explored valleys and glaciers, magnificent with it’s out of the ordinary summits, and historical perspectives; will be the mountaineering destination of the World in the years to come.

Uttarakhand: Garhwal & Kumaon

Garhwal

To start with the central part of the Indian Himalaya we must first mention ‘Garhwal’. The Gangotri glacier complex in Garhwal is a region that probably attracts the highest number of mountaineering expeditions each year. It is here; perhaps the most coveted mountains of Indian Himalaya are located. Satopanth, Shivling, Sudarshan Parvat, Thalay Sagar, Meru are just a few of the summits that are pride of the area.

Another landmark of Garhwal is of course Kamet, standing tall over the Saraswati valley. It was from this valley that early travellers like the Hindu Guru Sankaracharya and the Spanish priest, Father Andrade, crossed to Tibet over the Mana Pass. The peak of Kamet (7756m) was attempted several times and finally in 1931, Frank Smythe, R.L.Holdsworth and Eric Shipton reached the summit.

Western Garhwal is also called ‘Gibson territory’- as testimony to his Jack Gibson’s dedicated training efforts of young Indian mountaineers. Here on the slopes of Kalanag (6387m, also called Black Peak) and Swargarohini, Indians learnt the sport of climbing.

Kumaon

Perhaps the most important, beautiful, majestic and outstanding mountain is here in Kumaon. Nanda Devi (7816m)! In fact it is the centerpiece of the Indian Himalaya. The exploration of its route to its base, in to the sanctum sanctorum of the mountain was done in 10934 by Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. Its ascent in 1936 and all the subsequent expeditions are part of mountaineering history. Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri, Rishi Pahar, Bethartoli Himal are the other notable mountains of the famous Nanda Devi sanctuary. It is now allowed to climb all the mountains located on the outer rim of the sanctuary. The inner sanctuary remains closed to mountaineering still, a very controlled trekking trail is being opened to trekkers. Just outside the sanctuary on the South East side there are some fascinating mountains like Nanda Kot, Changuch, Nanda Khat. Going further East the famous Pancha Chuli group of peaks stands tall overlooking the Milam valley.

For the non technical and beginners one can choose Thelu, Koteswar or Rudugaira in Gangotri region. Kalanag in the Tons area can be chosen as a moderate objective requiring basic snow and ice climbing techniques. Kamet, Nanda Devi East, Shivling, Satopanth and many others will fall under the category of major mountaineering expedition, involving multiple camps, load ferries, fix ropes and advance glacier travel techniques and above all acclimatization.

Sikkim

Sikkim became an Indian state in 1974. Kangchendzonga is the prime attraction in Sikkim Himalaya. But there are many in their ranges that offer excellent climbing opportunities. Jopuno (5650m) and Tinchinkhang (5936m) are such peaks in the Dzongri- Goecha La area of West Sikkim. In fact Jopuno is ideal for first time Himalayan summit. For those who have been sharpening their climbing skills and stamina in the Alps, Jopuno would be an ideal peak to try themselves. It has the ideal mix of glacial walk, snow, ice and rock climbing. Other major peaks in the neighbourhood are Rathong, Kabru, Kokthang, Forked Peak. Pandim, a beautiful mountain, remains unclimbed as it a ‘holy peak’ to the Sikkimese people and out of bounds for climbing, just as Kanchendzonga. Sikkim authorities have recently relaxed its bureaucray and declared Lama Angden and Brum Khangtse in North Sikkim and Tinchinkhang in West Sikkim as peaks open to mountaineers.

Mountains requiring varying degrees of abilities and skills are spread across the Indian Himalaya range. From the Himalayan beginner to the very extreme alpinist, Uttarakhand and Sikkim has mountains to offer to everyone! I will make an attempt to site a few mountains that are suitable for beginners in the Himalaya and will also mention the other important areas and peaks. Indian Mountaineering Foundation is the apex body regulating all the mountaineering across the Indian Himalaya. Anyone wishing to climb a peak has to pay requisite fees, apply through this organization and abide by the rues and regulations set by the Government of India. For more information please visit their official website: www.indmount.org

Adventure Mania (www.adventuremania.com) organizes and leads expeditions all over the Indian Himalaya.

The following is list of peaks that are open to climbing parties:

Open Peaks in Uttarakhand

	Name of Peak and height (in meters)	Longitude	Latitude	Route
1	Panwali Dwar(6663)	79 57’	30 17’	Song(RH) - Khati - Dwalio - Phukia - Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit
2	Nanda Devi East (7437 )	79 59’	30 21’	Munsyari (RH) - Lilam - martoli(Vill) - nasanpatti - Bhadeligwar BC - C - I,C - II,C - II and summit attempt
3	Nanda Khat ( 6545 )	79 58’	30 18’	Bharari(RH) - Loharkhet - Khati - Dwali(Vill) - Base Camp,C - I,C - II,C - III summit attempt
4	Mrigthuni (6855 )	79 49’	30 17’	-do-
5	Maiktoli ( 6803 )	79 52’	30 16	-do-
6	Trishul-I ( 7120 )	76 46’	30 18’	Ghat(RH) - Sitel - Sutol - Lat Kopri - Chandniya Ghat - BC - C - I,C - II,C - III and summit attempt
7	Trishul-II (6690 )	79 46’	30 17’	-do-
8	Trishul-III (6008 )	79 48’	30 17’	-do-
9	Tharkot (6099 )	79 49’	30 13’	Bharari (RH) - Khati via Dhakuri - Jatolia - Sunder Dunga - Sukhran Cave BC - C - I,C - II,C - II and sumit attempt
10	Nanda Ghunti (6390 )	79 43’	30 20’	Debal(RH) - Hemkund(BC) - Roopkund - attempt nanda ghunit via the Ronti Saddle
11	Ronti (6063 )	79 43’	30 22’	-do-
12	Bhanoti (5645 )	79 50’	30 12’	Bharai (RH) Loharkhet - Dhakuri - Khati(Vill) Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
13	Baljuri (5922 )	79 57’	30 15’	Bharari(RH) - Loharkhet - Dhakuiri - Khati(Vill)Base Camp - C - I,C - II,C - III and summit attempt
14	Nanda Kot (6861 )	80 04’	30 16’	Son(RH) - Loharkhet - Dhakuri Pass - Khati(Vill) - Dwali - C - I,C_II and summit attempt
15	Laspa Dhura ( 5913 )	80 04’	30 14’	-do-
16	Unnamed Peak	77 16’	32 32’	Domphu Gompa (RH) Khoksar Nai - Tempala Pass (BC) - CiI summit attempt
17	Bara Sukha	78 36’	31 04’	Uttarkashi - Dunga - Pura(RH) - Tangua - Rania - base Camp - C - I & C - II then summit attempt
18	Rudugaira (5819 )	78 52’	30 56’	Gangotri (RH) Tapovan - BC - then summit
19	Swargtrohini - I (6252 )	78 30’	31 06’	Dehradun - natwar & Sankiri(RH) - Taluka - Osala - BC - BC - I and summit attempt
20	Swargtrohini - II (6278 )	78 30’	31 06’	-do-
21	Banderpunchi (6320 )	78 33’	31 00’	-do-
22	Sriknath (6133 )	78 48’	30 57’	Uttarkashi - Bhatwari - Sukki(RH) - Hasilalsong Tel Gad Nullah - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
23	Gangotri-I ( 6672 )	78 50’	30 55’	Gangotri(RH) - Ruduagira Nallah - BC - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
24	Gangotri - II ( 6590 )	78 51’	30 54’	-do-
25	Gangotri - III (6577 )	78 52’	30 48’	-do-
26	Jaonli ( 6632 )	78 51’	30 52’	-do-
27	Jogin-I ( 6465 )	78 55’	30 52’	-do-
28	Jogin-II (6342 )	78 55’	30 53’	Gangotri (RH) - Ruduagira nallah - BC - C - I - C - II and summit attempt
29	Jogin-III (6166 )	78 56’	30 52’	-do-
30	Thalaysagar (6904)	78 59’	30 51’	-do-
31	Manda (6568 )	79 00’	29 55’	Gangotri - Chirbas - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
32	Meru North ( 6450 )	79 02’	29 52’	Gangotri - Chirbas - Gaumukh - Tapovan - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
33	Meru East (6261 )	79 02’	29 52’	-do-
34	Kirti Stambh (6270 )	79 01’	30 49’	Gangotri - Chirbas - Gaumukh - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
35	Bhatekhunta (6578 )	79 02’	30 48’	-do-
36	Kedarnath (6962 )	79 04’	30 47’	-do-
37	Kedardome (6830 )	79 04’	30 48’	-do-
38	Karcha Kund (6632 )	79 07’	30 46’	-do-
39	Shivling (6543 )	79˚ 04’	30 52’	Gangotri - Gaumukh - Nandaban - BC - I,BC - II and sumit attempt
40	Bhagirathi - I ( 6856 )	79˚ 09’	30 51’	-do-
41	Bhagirathi-II (6512 )	79˚ 09	30 51’	-do-
42	Bhagirathi-III (6454 )	79˚ 08’	30 52’	-do-
43	Vasuki Parbat (6792 )	79˚ 10’	30 52’	-do-
44	Satopanth ( 7075 )	79˚ 13’	30 50’	-do-
45	Sudarshan Parbat (6507 )	79˚ 05’	30 58’	Gangtori - Gaumukh - BC - I,BC - II and summit attempt
46	Changabang (6866 )	79˚ 55’	30 29’	Joshimath (RH) Lata Vill. Belta - Latakhark - Dibrugatta - Uppr Deodi - BC - C - I,C - II and summit attempt
47	Nilkantha ( 6597 )	79˚ 24’	30 43’	Joshimath - Badrinath - BC - I and summit attempt
48	Chaukhamba-I (7886 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	Joshimath - Mana Vill. - BC - IBC - II ,BC - III and summit attempt
49	Chaukhamba-II (7070 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	-do-
50	Chaukhamba - III (6995 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	-do-
51	Chaukhamba-IV (6854 )	79˚ 15’	30 43’	-do-
52	Changuch ( 6322 )	80˚ 02’	30 17’	Bharari (RH) - Loharkhet - Khati - Dwali Vill - Base Camp - C - I,C - II and summit attempt

Other Peaks in Uttarakhand

	Peak	Height	Longitude	Latitude	Route
1.	Abi Gamin	7355M	79˚ 36' 09"	30 55' 57"	Joshimath - RH - Markari - Nitti - Sapukaharak - Nand - Kharak - BC - CI - CII - CIII & CIV then summit.
2.	Burphu Dhura	6414m
3.	Mukut Parbat	7242M	79˚ 34' 12"	30 57' 08"	Joshimath - RH - Markari - Nitti - Sapu Kharak - Nand Kharak - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV then summit.
4.	Shri Parbat	6175M	79˚ 18	31 49
5.	Unnamed Peaks	6148	79˚ 16	31 50
6.	Unnamed Peaks	6044	79˚ 17	31 50
7.	Unnamed Peaks	6038	79˚ 19	31 50
9.	Arwa Spire	6193m	79˚ 22'	30 49'
10	Arwa Tower	6352m	79˚ 24'	30 51'
11.	Bhrigupanth	6772m	79˚ 00'	30 53'
12.	Black peak	6387m	78˚ 34'	31 02'
13.	Kalindi	6103m	79˚ 16'	30 55'
14.	Koteshwar	6035m	79˚ 05'	30 58'
15.	Panchchui-III	6314m	80˚ 26'	30 12'
16.	Rudugaira	5819m	78˚ 52'	30 56'

Open Peaks in Sikkim

	Peak	Height	Longitude	Latitude	Route
1.	Chorten Nyima Peak	6927M	88 11'48"	35 57' 42"	Chuntang - Lachen - Zema - Rangsha - Dolmosampa - Zanak - Chorten Labsang - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
2.	Chumo Yommo	6829M	88 32'	28 02'	Singhik - Sentam - Tistariver - Lachen - Taling - Tasa Kangse - Tase Kang - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
3	Jong Song	7474M	88 08'06"	27 52' 54"	Lachen - Zemuchu - Rongsha - Dolma Sampa - Changsang - Goma - Jongsang Gl - BC - CI - CII - CIIIthen Summit.
4.	Khame Khong	6601M	88 08'	27 35'
5.	Kokthang	6147M	88 05'	27 34'	Tashiding - Toshigang - Yoksam - Bikari - Tal Pokri - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
6.	Kora Chonekang	6196M	88 22'	27 57'	Chuntang - Zema - Rongsha - Dolma Sampa - Kora Chamna - Kora Chonek - BC - CI - CII - CIII then summit.
7.	Langchung Khang	6766M	88 11'	27 52'	Tista river - Chuntang - Lachen - Rangsha - Changsang - E Langpo Gl - BC - CI - CII - C - IIIthen summit.
8.	Langpo	6954M	88 12'	27 53'	- do -
9.	Nepal peak	7180M	88 11' 13"	27 46' 33"	Darjeeling - Kalimpong - Singpam - Mangang - Lachen - Yabuk - RH - Green Lake - BC - Zemu Gl - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV then summit.
10.	Pouhunri	7065M	88 51'	28 02'	Tista river - Chuntang - Lachung - Yuntang - Yume Samdong - Zadong - Tista Kangse - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV the summit.
11.	Sentinel Peak	6490M	88 14'	27 58'	Lachen - Rongsha - Dolma Sampa - Zanak - Pangbeteng - Chorten Labsang - BC - CI - CII - CIIIthen summit.
12.	Talung	7349M	88 08'	27 38'	Tashiding - Tashigang - Choka - Tangshing - Onglaktang - Jemachang - Talung Gl - BC - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV then summit.
13.	Tent Peak	7365M	88 11'	27 47' 15"	Darjeleing - Kalimpong - Singpam - Mangang - Lachen - Yabuk - RH - Green Lake BC - Tent Peak Gl - CI - CII - CIII - CIV - CV then summit.

Unclimbed Peaks in Sikkim

	Peak	Height (m)	Latt.	Long	Map no.
1	Dome Khang	7442	27 53	88 09	78-A-1
2	Kabru N.	7395	27 38	88 08	78-A-2
3	Pk 7032 (south east of Pauhunri on Khang Kyong Khangse)	7032	27 56	88 52	78-A-13
4	Pk 7033 (south of Pauhunri)	7033	27 57	88 51	78-A-13
5	Pk 7080 (north of Pauhunri)	7080	27 57	88 51	78-A-13
6	Zemu Peak	7730	27 42	88 11	78-A-2