On 15th December 2011, at around 11 a.m. we stood on the top of Zemu Gap. This is the first documented ascent of ZG from south, i.e. Tongshiong Glacier.Anindya Mukherjee and Thendup Sherpa is seen in this photo. Pemba Sherpa took the snap. Seen in backdrop is the upper Zemu Glacier and many mountains including Sugarloaf. The small glacier ( tributary to Tongshiong glacier on its true left near its very head) that originates from Zemu Gap has the following defenses: 2 ice falls and 1 final head wall. We had made 1 ( our 3rd camp in Tongshiong glacier) final camp after negotiating the lower ice fall. It took us 5 hours to climb past the 2nd icefall and the final head wall on 15th December 2011. A brief report with more photos will appear on this blog soon. Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all!
view of Kangchenjunga south summit and Talung peaks from Tongshyong glacier. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee Text & Photographs: Anindya Mukherjee Introduction The history of exploration around Kangchenjunga [1] , especially around its south, south east and east flanks; has always fascinated me. The classic journeys and adventures of pioneers [2] like W.W. Graham, John Claude White, Douglas Freshfield, Dr. A.M. Kellas, Harold Raeburn, N.A.Tombazi, Lord John Hunt and Paul Bauer ignited my imagination. The height of inspiration of course came from reading my hero Mr. H.W. Tilman’s account in the Himalayan Journal (vol. IX) on his attempt on Zemu Gap from south in 1936. The primary challenge of climbing Zemu Gap from south has always been its remote & complicated approach. Many failed just to reach the foot of this col. To add to that its apparently impregnable defenses took Zemu Gap to a next level of exploratory climbing. In 1925, Greek photographer N.A.Tombazi is sai