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Self Supported Climbs in North-West Spiti 2018

Self Supported Climbs in North-West Spiti 2018 


Summary:

North-West Spiti, Suvita lungpa catchment, Glacier-I. Ascent of Larimo (5995m/5874m, second ascent) and Unnamed peak (6015m/6005m, first ascent) by traversing their south ridge from Gyundi Pass (5700m) in August 2018. In the Leomann map of the area, Larimo (5995m) is marked as Larimo II and Unnamed peak 6015m as Larimo I. But, as the ‘Larimo’ name itself was suggested by Arun Samant’s 1994 expedition and was meant for the 5995m point and no reference was made to 6015m as Larimo I, we have maintained that as our standards in this report. The mountains were climbed in alpine style and neither fixed ropes were used, nor was any high altitude support sought by employing porters beyond base camp. Terrain was typical of Spiti. Proposed grade: AD, considering altitude, remoteness, multiple camps and glacial approach. Map and documentary photos attached.

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Background

In August 2018, a small team of the Kolkata section of the Himalayan Club decided to organize a mountaineering trip in Spiti, Himachal Pradesh. The aim of their expedition was to introduce their beginner level members to the craft of self reliant Himalayan mountain climbing. They chose the Suvita lungpa catchment in North-West Spiti as their playground after reading Arun Samant’s detailed report in the Alpine Journal 1996[1] and the Himalayan Journal Vol-51[2].

The Area

The Suvita lungpa is one of the major tributaries of the Spiti River. Suvita lungpa catchment is formed by mainly four prominent yet unnamed glaciers (marked as glaciers I, II, III and IV). Streams from all the glaciers merge to form the Suvita nala that flows North to meet the Spiti river near the village of Losar and its watershed ridge system hosts fourteen peaks above 5900 m. in 1994, Arun Samant’s team had climbed seven of them and six out that seven were first ascents. At the head of Glacier-I, two peaks, namely Larimo (5995m) and Num Themga (6024m) were climbed by Arun Samant’s team back in 1994. No other party had entered that glacier ever since. 

The Team

Dr. Kallol Das (Leader, Vice President, Himalayan Club), Tapas Deb, Sanjoy Moitra, Partha Das and Anindya Mukherjee. Phurtenji Sherpa joined the team as base camp cook and Milan Chettri as kitchen helper from Manali. 


a section of Arun Samant's map that shows our mountain and its approach

A few peaks of glacier-I are visible from the village of Losar


Climbs in Glacier-I

On 19th August, 2018, BC was established at an altitude of 4500m on a small grassy meadow coordinates as 32°24'16.97'' N and 77° 45' 43.76''E. 



On 23rd August, Partha and Anindya started their bid for summit from a high camp established in Glacier-I. Their goal, at the outset was Larimo (5995m). They knew, Arun Samant’s team had climbed Larimo by gaining its South ridge after reaching the Gyundi Pass. 


They intended to do the same. After an hour they reached the accumulation zone of Glacier-I. From there they cramponed up and started climbing a gentle snow and ice slope towards the Gyundi Pass. It took them another two hours to reach the crest of the pass. After a short rest on top of the windy Gyundi Pass, they started climbing towards Larimo (5995m). The ridge was composed of fine gravel and dry soil. 

Within the next hour they were standing on top of Larimo. Altemeter showed 5874m as their elevation. It was at this moment, they noted that the very next peak on the ridge extending towards North of Larimo lies at a close distance and the ridge connecting them was very straightforward. From map, they knew it was an unnamed mountain of 6015m. Anindya decided to go for it, while Partha waited for him on top of Larimo. After reaching the summit the altimeter read 6005m. As far we could consult local climbing reports, this was a first ascent. Scroll below for a few photos that Anindya took from the summit of 6015m. 






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Comments

  1. UnknownJune 12, 2020 at 2:47 AM

    Great Partha and Raja .Kallol Da and entire team 👍👍👍.

    I could have reach to base camp at least , to support the team if I was there . Stay safe & fit many more to come 🍻

    ReplyDelete

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